• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Clicker settings for 14 te/TXC 250r, the manual is , er , crap :D

Any ideas ?
Ps, bike goes great, just wondering whether it's worth the time trail side to try different settings ?


Yes, it's definitely worth carrying a screwdriver & fiddling on the trails.

A suspension tuner listed this method in an article I read recently. It is time consuming, but methodical.

The best way is to find a trail that loops back to a central point that has a mix of terrain you run over normally.
Count the clicks 'in' all the way & record the settings you have now before you go changing it all. (In case you want to start over)
Then back them out past the original setting by 5 or 6 clicks & ride your loop, see how it feels to you.
Starting with the rebound setting, & go in a couple of clicks then try again. Keep doing this until you feel it getting worse.
Then repeat the process with the compression settings, a couple of clicks at a time.
Record what worked best to use later if you change settings for some reason.

Having the original TE or TXC setting really is of no use when you will likely move away from standard for how & where you ride.
Hope that helps.
 
Yes, it's definitely worth carrying a screwdriver & fiddling on the trails.

A suspension tuner listed this method in an article I read recently. It is time consuming, but methodical.

The best way is to find a trail that loops back to a central point that has a mix of terrain you run over normally.
Count the clicks 'in' all the way & record the settings you have now before you go changing it all. (In case you want to start over)
Then back them out past the original setting by 5 or 6 clicks & ride your loop, see how it feels to you.
Starting with the rebound setting, & go in a couple of clicks then try again. Keep doing this until you feel it getting worse.
Then repeat the process with the compression settings, a couple of clicks at a time.
Record what worked best to use later if you change settings for some reason.

Having the original TE or TXC setting really is of no use when you will likely move away from standard for how & where you ride.
Hope that helps.
Yeah, it does and the bike goes great, I am just perplexed(big word for a Jack Daniel fuelled Friday night ) as to whether husky used the full TXC setup (therefore needing the clicker settings for TXC) or whether they fitted the TXC suspension but set them up for TE spec ???

Found the rear swaying under heavy acceleration , didn't track that straight when caning it (as you do) and put that down to front stiffer than rear ?

I think I'll get a fast loop and give the TXC settings a go all round, then the te all round an dmake a call on that.
I document everything I do anyway (on workshop cupboard doors, doesn't everyone ! :D) so it's all able to be reset.

Ps, one click on the cc forks makes a huge difference, immediately noticeable.
 
Just rechecked sag after first ride, was 47mm static, must have settled in doh !
Reset static to 40mm and ended up with 98mm race sag, that's close to perfect, that should help the rear track better now...:)
 
Another question, I've removed the huge tail piece and attached plate to white plastic part of fender, where can I bolt the indicators ?

I won't use them a lot but I'll be on a ride soon that the local authorities like to get money from fines and they'll need to be fitted so, is there a little bracket available or is it a case of DIY ?

A couple of beers and some aluminum angle......the forward screw goes up into the tail light and the rear screw is a plastic license plate bolt drilled thru the fender, designed to shear if you hit it. There's a spare screw stored in the plate.

rear brack1.JPG

rear brack2.JPG
 
Good idea :).
I've actually bought LED number plate bolts that also has indicators.

Go through number plate holes :)

I'll do a pic when they arrive.
 
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