• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc changing jets, hints and tips 4 carb access

M

motosapiens

Husqvarna
A Class
Most stuff is pretty easy to work on, but the way the throttle cable runs between the motor mounts on the wr300 makes getting to the carb a little trickier. I can get to the needle by just loosening the clamps slightly and turning the carb a few degrees. If i remove the slide I can yank the whole carb out without too terribly much trouble, but I'd like to not have to do that for jet changes.

if I remove the slide, should i be able to turn the carb enough to remove the float bowl drain plug and get to the main and pilot?

Can i get to the main and pilot by just removing the drain? or do i need to remove the float bowl too ( i hope not).

Anyone route the throttle cable any differently with success? I haven't looked real closely at it yet. My kx has a little bend so it comes in underneath the motor mounts, which makes it a little easier (cuz the slide isn't trapped there in the way), but you still have to remove the lid to get the carb to turn very far.
 
Re-route the cable outside of the head stay and you can then twist the carb to access the jets without removing the slide. The cable is long.

You can access the MJ and PJ through the drain.
 
PC.;84069 said:
Re-route the cable outside of the head stay and you can then twist the carb to access the jets without removing the slide. The cable is long.

You can access the MJ and PJ through the drain.
Click to expand...

u da man. I should just start pm-ing you my questions instead of posting them. :notworthy:
 
My pleasure.
Its not often that I get to sound like I know what I'm talking about:cheers: Plus others may find this info useful in the future.

What you really should do is search for an old NWetrider post talking about the 'fixes' that should be done before putting too many miles on her.

Loctite motor mount bolts, fix mudflap, etc....
 
once i rerouted the cable around the headstays, it was a piece of cake to get to the carb and change the jets. thanks for the tip. :cheers::notworthy:
 
yipper run the cable to the right of the stays and it's an easy swing to get the slide out then the jets can come out the bowl drain hole. dont remove the carb unless absouletly nec as the boots are tender and dont like that abuse too much. ill pull the subframe off so as to stress the boots less if i gotta yank the carb esp on the 4t.
 
NWRider;84299 said:
If you put a screw top PWK on you can change needle and main jet in under 5 minutes.
Click to expand...

does it take people longer than that to do it on the mikuni carb?

most of my time is spent wrestling with the jigsaw-puzzle tank. Once that is off the needle or jet change goes very quick.
 
Why do you take the tank off? I have a 125 now but I thought the 300 still had plenty of room to rotate the carb and get to the top of it as long as the cable is routed outside the stays.
 
NWRider;84314 said:
Why do you take the tank off? I have a 125 now but I thought the 300 still had plenty of room to rotate the carb and get to the top of it as long as the cable is routed outside the stays.
Click to expand...

now that the cable is rerouted i may not need to take the tank off. previously i had to do it to get to the top of the carb.
 
So when you reroute the cable, you do absolutely nothing except pull it out of the mounting points from the cylinder to the frame? Chain side or shifter side? Which way do you usually spin the carb to get to the jets? I found it easier to rejet from the shifter side.
 
I understand now. Put the cable on the left side, spin to remove the slide, then tip the carb the other way to get at the jets.
 
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