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Chain Tension Issue with wheel swap

motopreserve

motopreserve

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hey folks, I'm new to wrenching on off-road bikes, and just yesterday swapped 17" Warp 9 wheels onto my 2009 TE610 for the first time. The stock wheels had a 46 tooth sprocket, and the Warp 9 a 44. Is this sprocket and wheel size enough to require a new, shorter chain?

I have read several posts about the fact that off-road bikes have a much looser chain than street bikes, but it still seems to me that the tension on this chain is way too loose. In trying to tighten the chain, I have moved the wheel/axle back almost to the end of the swing arm - and can no longer see the adjustment marks. I measured it as 4mm from the end on each side (see photo below).

The chain can easily be pushed up toward the swing arm, and hits the rubber guide under the swing arm, even with weight on it, and when I used compression straps to adjust it.

Any guidance for getting this correct would be much appreciated.

Scott

Huskycabletensioner.jpg
 
How old is the chain? It's not a big deal to drop a link if you've got a hand grinder and a punch set (or preferably a chainbreak).

Also, if setting tension with straps, I usually pull it down til the swingarm lines up with the front sprocket then set the slack to be minimal at that point, since that's as tight as it will get in travel. That usually ends up with about 1-1.25" of play with the bike unloaded.
 
The chain is not old at all - so I don't think it should be stretched. I do have a chain breaker - but I'd love to be able to swap wheels back and forth. Probably should just get another chain. The PO said he operated this way with the same chain - but this loose doesn't seem right to me.

Thanks for the help.
 
How far back were the adjustment marks with the stock wheel? Dropping down 2 teeth on the rear sprocket shouldn't have pushed it past adjustment range. 17" wheel size has no affect on this at all. I would either go up a couple teeth on the Warp wheel rear sprocket or go up one tooth on the countershaft sprocket. Either should put you in chain adjustment range and back to same gearing you had.

_
 
With the stock wheel, it was 2 and a hair marks. So definitely WAY different than this one. I didn't think the sprocket would make that much difference either - but here I am :)
 
I would break the chain and then run 2 master links with the extra chain segment when you need the extra length. Pretty safe since when is the last time you have a master link come apart. Cam.e
 
I simply run a different chain for different wheels. Simple.

I did consider making up special chain-blocks. Instead of square, have it rectangular, with the axle-hole offset to one end. for the dirt wheels with the lower gearing, have the axle forward. When you put on the 'tard wheels, flip the blocks over, so that the hole is farther back.

It seemed a good idea at the time, but then I got slack and just swapped chains with wheels.
 
I would break the chain and then run 2 master links with the extra chain segment when you need the extra length. Pretty safe since when is the last time you have a master link come apart. Cam.e
Click to expand...

I've never thought about doing that - sounds a bit dicey, but not based on personal experience. Just doesn't "feel" right. I think the second chain is a safer idea.
 
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