125-200cc Chain Adjustment WR 125

[WR BOB]

I'm trying to be a little more scientific with my chain tightness. Following a recent tip in EDM (online dirt mag) by disconecting the shock and getting the axle parrell to counter shaft sprocket. Then using thier formula you should have 3-10mm of movement mid-way the swing arm if you pull the chain up. They also have a neat way of making a guage to check the movement while the bike is on the stand.

My manual says 0-2mm movement with everything parrell. My question is that the chain seems so tight at this point even with 3mm movement. Is this normal? Does the chain really need to be that tight in the tightest point? Thanks in advance for your help guys.

http://www.easterndirt.com/?p=207 (tec tip helpers often have on Daisy Duke shorts)

WR Bob

 

[krieg]

Too much work for me. I think I'll stay with the same method that's got me by since 1968.

 

[WR BOB]

Too much work for me. I think I'll stay with the same method that's got me by since 1968.

Well I'm a perfect example of what to many Fat Tire beers can do to you in the garage. So, what might your 1968 methodology be my Husky Prof. ? I still have my bike in traction and would love a second opinion! Thanks.

WR Bob

 

[krieg]

Well I'm a perfect example of what to many Fat Tire beers can do to you in the garage. So, what might your 1968 methodology be my Husky Prof. ? I still have my bike in traction and would love a second opinion! Thanks.

WR Bob

I use the guage marks on the adjusting bolt blocks on the swing arm till I get the correct chain deflection per the manual.

 

[MattR]

The problem is that manuals tend to recommend too tight of tension.

I use a similar method described in the article to get my swingarm horizontal (chain at tightest position) and backoff the tension to give me a few millimeters of slack. Then, I lock everything down and check the final slack with the bike sitting on a bikestand (at full extension). For the Husky 125, you will end up with 50-55mm slack when measured from top of swingarm to centerline of chain (pin)... FYI my reference location is at the back of the slider(top surface).

 

[WR BOB]

I use the guage marks on the adjusting bolt blocks on the swing arm till I get the correct chain deflection per the manual.

Can you compress your suspension enough to get your sprocket and axle in line with each other as per the manual? Then check the deflection. The idea behind the EDM method was to come up with a guage to use without having to align the components.

If your bike (bikes you lucky dog) was on the stand, how much deflection do you uses in one direction?

I've been adjusting chains since my Harley M50 days in the 60's also, but missed out on all this long travel development. I'll try not to bother you any more after you tell me how often you replace the o-rings on your chain .

Thanks, WR Bob

 

[WR BOB]

The problem is that manuals tend to recommend too tight of tension.

I use a similar method described in the article to get my swingarm horizontal (chain at tightest position) and backoff the tension to give me a few millimeters of slack. Then, I lock everything down and check the final slack with the bike sitting on a bikestand (at full extension). For the Husky 125, you will end up with 50-55mm slack when measured from top of swingarm to centerline of chain (pin)... FYI my reference location is at the back of the slider(top surface).

MattR I didn't see your reply until after I replied back to Krieg. After putting everything back together I do have about the same slack as you mention. I'm not going to remove the shock everytime I check my chain, but thought it would be interesting to set it this way one time and have a good reference point thereafter. Ah, the beauty of riding BMW's. No chain and no radiator! Thanks MattR.

Wr Bob

 

[HuskyDude]

The first time I was fool'n around with my chian like that, I put a steel rod through the back axle put a tie down over the seat attached to the steel rod. Laid my fat carcass across the seat and push down with my body weight while taken up the slack of the tie down.
Didn't take long before all were lined up to adjust my chain.
Undo the tie down took another measurement of chain slack and that becomes you normal adjustment.
Only needed to do it once.

 

[WR BOB]

The first time I was fool'n around with my chian like that, I put a steel rod through the back axle put a tie down over the seat attached to the steel rod. Laid my fat carcass across the seat and push down with my body weight while taken up the slack of the tie down.
Didn't take long before all were lined up to adjust my chain.
Undo the tie down took another measurement of chain slack and that becomes you normal adjustment.
Only needed to do it once.

Well I did use the tie down method, but wiff my 145 lbs. arse, I had to do the shock disconnect method. Guess I need to drink lotsa Fat Tire. Thanks HuskyDude.

WR Bob

 

[MattR]

I'm not going to remove the shock everytime I check my chain, but thought it would be interesting to set it this way one time and have a good reference point thereafter.

Yeah, it is only a onetime procedure/hassle that I do with all my bikes. After that, you have your reference measurement with it sitting on a bike stand at full extension. A piece of wood like EDM is convenient for a quick go/no go gauge. I may have to make one of those. I'm currently use a small steel ruler.

 

[skid]

I always just used 3 or 4 fingers measured at the end of the upper front chain rub thingy. Put bike on stand ... If you can get 3 or 4 fingers between the chain and the top of the swing arm right where the front chain slide/protector ends your good to go.