• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Chain Adjuster Bolts...are they really needed?

9

99WR250

Husqvarna
A Class
Broke the chain adjuster bolts trying to move them :( are these really needed? I snapped both heads on the swing arm (right and left side)

Can I just line up the spacer marks on each side an call it good? or maybe use a temporary spacer while adjusting the chain? I think these bolts may be tough to get out. I tried heat and vice grips with no luck.

rearaxleadjuster.jpg
 
I would say they are, the motor is constantly trying to pull that wheel forward thru the chain.

I'd prob pull off the swingarm and soak them in a penetrating oil over night. Cut a slot in the end use a flathead screwdriver.

Or better yet if you get two bolts and thread them on, then lock them against each other. You can use a box end wrench to turn them out.

I saw your issue with your fork as well. You're not having much luck I see.

I think the fork should've been hit with an impact gun beforehand. And at worst you should've only snapped one chain adjuster in my opinion.

If things are that hard to remove/unthread. They typically require a different method.

Not trying to rag on you as I'm sure you're frustrated. And it is an older bike so things give out I understand. Just trying to help.
 
Yeah...by no means am I an expert at working on dirt bikes. This is my first bike ....that needed real work done to it. It's a 1999 so I'm sure I'll run into more issues. I haven't even pulled the fork or checked the steering bearing. Still need to change fork oil and service rear shock...but I wanna ride it around to get a good feel for it first.

I was lucky enough to fix the fork cap (which was actually on my bothers 1980 Yamaha IT250). .... But now onto the next issue with these chain adjusters.

I agree... I should NOT have broken BOTH bolts. I didnt use heat on the first one...and thought it would do the trick on he second one. I was wrong. So it seems they are quite necessary pieces. I like the idea of using 2 bolts! Thanks!
 
Ah i see. I was looking at the pic's and thought "man those 99 bars/steerer look archaic"

Anyway, happy wrenching!
 
If you own or know someone with a mig / tig welder - weld a nut back on the broken bolt with a good high amp setting then the lot will glow red hot, a little back and forth working will soon have it out, if it snaps off just repeat it WILL come out I have never had to drill one out yet and I have done plenty of um :thumbsup:
 
y
johnnyboy said:
If you own or know someone with a mig / tig welder - weld a nut back on the broken bolt with a good high amp setting then the lot will glow red hot, a little back and forth working will soon have it out, if it snaps off just repeat it WILL come out I have never had to drill one out yet and I have done plenty of um :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
yes weld a nut to it leave some space behind it let cool a bit then stick a b-day candle in behind the nut the heat will melt the wax and it will seep down into the threads you can try heating the swingarm with a propane torch you want to expand the hole not the bolt then work it outa there when you do chase the threads with a tap re place the bolts with some hi grade stuff like f911 or 10.8 and lots of anti seize when you put it back together and take it apart&re grease real regular
 
If you soak them in penetrating oil for a day and then heat the aluminum they should come out with vice grips. As others have said the secret to keeping those alive is anti-seize and quality bolts. Cam.
 
yup heat/cold cycles with a pencil torch, let penetrant soak in. heat/cold cycles busts the bond in the threads.

yank swinger, stand on end or in a vice. spritz penetrant. let soak a spell. heat bolt shank with pencil torch (protect alloy somehow)- just the bolt. have ice cold rags handy. slap them on bolt once it's almost red. spritz with penetrant (kroil's awesome). should come out with VG's.

ive done this on asians and auto's with stuck suspension bolts.
 
ah- you got me! i totally forgot about the sneak attack from behind. good one D! two points for you!
 
Yep you need them. The trick like johnnyboy said welding a nut onto the remaining piece works. Just take a nut thats large enough to go over the threaded end, put it so you can fill about half of it in with weld, have your wrench ready, and start removing it while it's still hot. I use my mig welder for this kind of stuff. Good luck.
 
If you weld a nut to it (easiest solution) let it cool down before trying to remove. It would be a good time to soak it with penetrating oil. Trying to remove it as soon as it's welded can strip the threads on the aluminum swingarm. The aluminum expands in all directions, including towards the bolt actually making it tighter. When you get the new bolts in there, don't be shy with the anti seize.
 
johnnyboy said:
If you own or know someone with a mig / tig welder - weld a nut back on the broken bolt with a good high amp setting then the lot will glow red hot, a little back and forth working will soon have it out, if it snaps off just repeat it WILL come out I have never had to drill one out yet and I have done plenty of um :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Exactly.
 
I've found that by welding a nut or another bolt on the end, they come out almost by hand. Can't explain it, but I can spend days trashing a bolt trying to get it out and then finally welding on a bolt because I've buggered it up so bad and after it cools it practically comes out by hand. Done it half a dozen times now. Next time I should remember to go straight to the welder, but I won't. I need a few days of frustration first to remember.
 
Darkside said:
I've found that by welding a nut or another bolt on the end, they come out almost by hand. Can't explain it, but I can spend days trashing a bolt trying to get it out and then finally welding on a bolt because I've buggered it up so bad and after it cools it practically comes out by hand. Done it half a dozen times now. Next time I should remember to go straight to the welder, but I won't. I need a few days of frustration first to remember.
Click to expand...


The heat from welding frees up the threads.
I found that spraying the thread generously with WD40 and than heating it also helps...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top