• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc Chain adjuster bolt

creamsodauk

Husqvarna
B Class
I don't suppose anyone knows the dimensions of the chain adjuster bolt.

Mine snapped during adjusnent and I have managed to order a new adjuster but the bolt was out of stock! So I need to know what I need to order so I can get back on the road 8-)
 
The thread is a 8x1.25 all thread bolt. Pull your other one out to measure length and anti-seize before it breaks off as well.

if you don't have anti-seize handy I use grease, best results with marine grease as its waterproof
 
Iv sprayed the right side with de watering for now, it was completely free and not tight

Just for future reference they are 50mm long thread length

I'm now struggling to find a suitable bolt as most bolts over 40mm are partially threaded unlike the ones in the husky that are fully threaded
 
Iv sprayed the right side with de watering for now, it was completely free and not tight

Just for future reference they are 50mm long thread length

I'm now struggling to find a suitable bolt as most bolts over 40mm are partially threaded unlike the ones in the husky that are fully threaded
Run a die down it! (corrected...)
 
Just for future reference they are 50mm long thread length

I'm now struggling to find a suitable bolt as most bolts over 40mm are partially threaded unlike the ones in the husky that are fully threaded

You don't need to use the exact same bolt. Just look at where the other adjuster is and the range that you usually have it set and get one that will work for that.

For example, if you run the wheel near the front, get the fully threaded 40 mm, and if you run mid-back, just get the 50 mm, you won't ever need to screw it all the way in.
 
that or as previously stated get whatever bolt you need to be long enough and run a die down it to give it the extra threads..
 
Seriously?! You can't just run a die down a bolt, guys. Well you can, but <hack, hack> it won't work out. Bolts with rolled threads have a too-small diameter unthreaded section and there will be hardly anything there, they certainly won't hold squat. Machined threads have too-thick of a machined section and your die will jam and chip/break. Then there is the issue of markings/sharp edges etc on the bolt head hacking on your axle blocks, and the final verdict is to GET THE CORRECT BOLT. Husky isn't special, I'm sure you can find bolts from another manufacturer that will work just fine. :banghead:
 
Seriously?! You can't just run a die down a bolt, guys. Well you can, but <hack, hack> it won't work out. Bolts with rolled threads have a too-small diameter unthreaded section and there will be hardly anything there, they certainly won't hold squat. Machined threads have too-thick of a machined section and your die will jam and chip/break. Then there is the issue of markings/sharp edges etc on the bolt head hacking on your axle blocks, and the final verdict is to GET THE CORRECT BOLT. Husky isn't special, I'm sure you can find bolts from another manufacturer that will work just fine. :banghead:
I've needed it. I've done it. It's a no load axle spacer locator application. No biggie... When time is of the essence...
 
I think youl find the unthreaded are is thicker in many cases

The ones I looked at before getting mine where a good 1 too 2 mm thicker at the non threaded bit then the threaded part
 
Well I managed to create a good cm of thread on the bolt before the dye gave up and broke!

It was enough to refit it with a slack chain so I have re packed the tap and dye set to get a refund

On a plus side I found an eBay seller who had some full threaded bolts! So £5.15 posted for 10 was good enough for me 8-)
 
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