• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Causes of warped front disk

S

SMR510 Rider

Husqvarna
B Class
I have a 2007 SMR 510 and I've warped three disks. At first I thought I was just riding too aggressively, but now in running dual sport tires and the last trip I was really easy on the brakes when it warped. More accurately, it is thicker at one point than the others. Seems straight.

More details: the first time I replaced it with a stock disk. When I was changing the wheels, I had to ruin the stock bolts, so I've been running stainless steel ones my mechanic got. When I changed the disk the last time, I got stock bolts again, but they were so soft I couldn't torque them to spec and ruined the new ones when I went to my spoked wheels again. Not wanting to pay $40 shipping for $5 bolts, I went back to the stainless ones. Could the bolts be a factor? The last time I didn't go with a Brembo disk. I got a braking one out of Italy that's 5 mm and aluminum carrier. My mechanic thinks maybe I have a sticking caliper piston and it's applying the brakes unevenly. What do you guys think? I feel like you should be able to put this setup to a track day that's a lot more demanding than my street riding.
 
Maybe use a dial indicator gauge to see if your front hub and disc are running true.
Also check the 2 pins that allow the caliber to "float" are greased and not binding.
 
The rotor is a few months old. I don't have a dial indicator, but by spinning it I can see it binds between the pads at one point. Seems straight, just thicker. I noticed the brakes making a squealing noise when stopping. The pads are new. Maybe it's pad residue buildup.
 
is this a radial caliper? Unbolt it slightly, just loose. apply brake while tightening bolts. Worth a try?
 
your caliper may not be floating equally on each side of the rotor. Ensure that the caliper pins (usually have the rubber boots) are smooth and lubricated. Do not confuse these pins with the pad pins.

One pad being significantly worn compared to the other would also be an indicator of this.

an eyeball and a rigid piece of wire should easily show and warpage, out-of-round or any other problems your wheel, hub, or caliper may have.
 
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