Can I ride without a dyno tune and new PCV

[cosi]

hey guys, so I have gutted the standard twin pipes on the SMR510 2010 and have a new PCV and autotune installed. I haven't had a dyno tune yet, but am I ok to ride the bike until the tune is done. I can turn the autotune on and ride it. Will I be harming the engine at all running it lean or rich in some spots? It will only be for a week or so.

Any thoughts?

btw, I had my mufflers anodizsed matt black and I am not happy at all with it. They are supposed to dip it in acid/etch it before they apply the coating. Will that process get rid of the grime and rubber sealant on the inside of the exhaust as mine still has the rubber even after it has been anodized.

 

[Husq-a-daygo]

You'll be fine with just the autone. Download zipty race map too!

 

[Johnrg]

Just go into the software first and set the cell that determines what percentage to allow Autotune to adjust trim. Most set to 20% and I set mine to 10%. Take a ride and check the trim table. Accept the trim and ride again and see what additional changes it has made. Accept the trims and monitor the changes. A couple of rides should give you a finsihed map or a good base if you want to leave Autotune on all the time. Autotune will improve your tune very quickly though initial warmup may be rough running. You also may want to set a time/duration for the engine to warm up before Autotune starts to make adjustments (another software setting). As you go tuning should improve. Someone may be able to give you good target AFR settings for your bike and good to input these up front. I had mine set at Dynojet so have never altered them.

 

[cosi]

You'll be fine with just the autone. Download zipty race map too!

Can you elaborate on where I might said map?

 

[Huskynoobee]

Not sure they have a map for your bike, so perhaps you can ask Dynojet. John is very good with the use of Autotune, so try what he's suggesting. He has the best running 310 I know of.

 

[cosi]

Here is the target AFR map if I turn the auto tune on.

The bike was dynoed without it on and it made 50hp making peak power at 8000rpm

Can anyone assist with what target AFR I should be using when I turn on the auto tune.

 

[Johnrg]

If that was a kit specific to your bike it's probably set then. Mine after a dyno run at Dynojet with the PCV was delivered with the following table. I wonder why I have zeros in places... But, they tuned to it so will leave it as they may do so for a reason.

Some info from the Dynojet site:
"Dynojet creates target AFR tables for most of our pre-configured maps. The values in our supplied AFR table are what we recommend for most users. You are free to change these values to meet your needs or desires. The AFR values we supply are what we have found to work best on that particular vehicle. There are some older maps that do not have any values in the AFR table; you will have to fill those in yourself. Most naturally aspirated four stroke engines, running pump gasoline, make the best horsepower at an AFR between 12.8 – 13.4; and get the best fuel economy around 14.7 AFR. Boosted engines need significantly different numbers. Power Commander Accessory Issues"

http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/Support/powercommander_faqs.aspx

 

[JonXX]

The problem with Autotune on a big single is the pulse frequency. Power Commanders are originally designed for inline-4 engines that have a linear, constant exhaust flow. There's "lag time" between the exhaust pulses on a single, and the AT doesn't understand that, and makes adjustments back and forth to adjust for "on pulse" and "off pulse." If you move your AT-established tables into a 3d map, it'll look like the Sawtooth Mountains, with the AT going back and forth between "throw LOTS of fuel" and "WHOA! Don't throw ANY fuel!"

Example. Here is the table for the fuel map

The orange line is the graphical representation of the above table, as "learned and saved" via the AutoTune, at 2% throttle opening (idle). The green line is what it should be optimized for.

Throw those points into SolidWorks and you get this.

Push, pull and twiddle to smooth things out

Here's the final fuel map, far and away better and smoother than what AutoTune thinks it should be. The bike ran easily 100% better across the range on this map.

*tabling and rendering by my buddy Ma$ter_E, you can read about his fight with his 630 on SMJ.

 

[Tinken]

This is not only true of autotune, but for the O2 sensors used with dynos.

 

[Mik-3]

Me was running that autotune when i was getting in dyno run, but after that..You dont need that autotune any more..Test that what your dyno dude say, my was saying nice device, but it was go little weard way and that dyno dude was showing that map...There is few big changes autotune vs that map what was adjusted in dyno run.
I was driving like about only 3-4000 km, before i was going dyno run..