• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Cam Chain Tensioner

duggoey

duggoey

Husqvarna
Pro Class
A while ago I had to re-do the timing when I replaced my water pump seal. I had not ridden the bike at all since the start of August when I fixed it. Today when I started it up I found there is a big load on the motor and I realised that the auto tensioner must have sprung in during the repair process. I took the tensioner apart, reset it and replaced only to find that the main bolt for the spring retainer stripped the alloy housing's thread. Has anyone done this before?

I have two choices - Repair the thread properly with a recoil

OR

If I wind the bolt in without the washer it bights nicely. If I scrap the washer underneath the bolt will the tensioner just move back out 3 or so clicks and all will be well (if I reset it again obviously), or will this be beyond the tolerance of the tensioner?
 
20130905_194414.jpg
Also, I do not know the measurements for the bolt in order to get a recoil and tap if I decide to go down that path. What is the thread size, depth and pitch?
 
Check my memory here, but isn't the bolt just a plug, it just holds the spring in there so that the spring can do its auto tensioning job. I'd just tap the housing as it sits and put a same-length, bigger-size bolt in there.
 
OlderHuskyRider said:
Check my memory here, but isn't the bolt just a plug, it just holds the spring in there so that the spring can do its auto tensioning job. I'd just tap the housing as it sits and put a same-length, bigger-size bolt in there.
Click to expand...
Yes the bolt is a plug and it is slotted to house the spring, so between it and the washer it holds the spring at a predetermined distance from the tensioner. If i alter the length of the bolt it will move relative to the rest. Your suggestion is probably the best one, just I am always paranoid about tapping to a bigger diameter in these alloy things, if it strips again then your buggered. It would be hard to find a matching bolt though due to the internal slot.
 
I went with a recoil. But had to trim it as there isn't a lot of depth in the hole. I wish I could say that more often.
 
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