• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Buying a used bike...what would you do?

9

99WR250

Husqvarna
A Class
If you bought a used bike as your first trail bike (1999 WR250)... What would be your check list of things to go over?

So far I have:

Replaced tank with fresh gas/stabil
Disassembled and cleaned pet cock
Replaced air filter
Changed oil
Replaced tires
Replaced wheel bearings
Greased all zerks
Adjusted suspension
Changed front and rear brake pads
New sproket/chain


Am I missing anything? What other items would you suggest inspecting?
 
Disassemble, clean, and regrease linkage, swingarm, and steerer tube bearings. Change fork oil and shock fluid. And repack the silencer.
 
Utopia! Thanks for the added info. Any suggestions on the type of repacking material for the silencer? My parts shops says there are a few kinds: sheet like material, and more of a cotton candy type/consistency. He also says there are different weights/ratings for the baffle material... Do you know what I need to go with ?

Also. What type /weight fork oil, and how much goes in each stanchion?

Thanks for the help in advance. I'll post up pics of the process in order to help newer members like myself when they run into the same problems!
 
Exhaust packing - my preference is sheet material, more even pressure when wrapping. Weight/ratings? So long as it's for motorbike's is fine, l have used steel wool for a 4t road once....

Fork oil - consult a manual (pm and l can email), need a fork level tool or steel ruler, syringe and clear tube works as well, plenty of vids on how to dissemble and measure forks (RMATV has a good one). I use 5wt and 100mm airgap for my forks.

Rear Shock: if you don't have the tools (most don't) send it to your LBS and have them service the shock (fresh oil, gas recharged).

Don't know your riding ability or type of riding, but the best bet is to send your forks and shock to a suspension tuner to do a complete service, springs to your weight and possible valving - THE BEST mod that a rider can do to a bike (new or old).

Make sure to torque the fork clamps to OE specs, sometimes guys over tighten them which causes binding as well as the front axle bolt - all about fork alignment and saving you from leaky fork seals and binding.
 
I always pull the pipe and pull the reed block in order to have a good look at the piston and ring wear. Some engines are more prone to stress crack a piston on the intake side so why not have a look while the carb is off. I also do all of the above listed. You will have piece of mind if you find nothing wrong and save big if you catch a problem early
 
For packing, I have been using the red FMF stringy stuff and it works well. The sheet stuff is easier to use. Both work fine. Just don't pack it too tight or it will be loud and not work properly. For fork oil, I recommend finding a manual and go by the recommendations for oil weight and level for your year and model.
 
I bought a 99 WR250 brand new, was my first new Husky. Great bike. Super reliable. I did ahve an issue where the base valves int he forks came loose and cause the front end to have nearly zero damping. I believe that bike had linkage and swing arm zerk fittings so they might be good if someone took the time to actually squeeze some grease in there once in a while. Also all motor parts interchange with the newer ones, same motor. Actually the whole bike except for the plastic is very similar. Enjoy.
 
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