Buying a TE 630. Quick advice, please

[motranqui]

Hi

Next Friday I’m going to test a second hand TE630 2011 bike. The bike has PU, twin Arrow and the Arrow EFI. May be that the bike have the snorkel and the maze still in, I don’t know.

I wonder if in this condition the bike SHOULD run smooth at low rpm, I mean, without hesitation nor crackle, surges, etc when I open the throttle

As I’m going to use the bike on dirt tracks, for me it’s a must than bike has smooth performance between 1500 to 3.500 rpm and, if I buy the bike and the only thing it’s left to do is open the air box, and this doesn't get the bike that I want, for me it will be like throw the money away



Also the Owner has told me that the trip has not light and the tachometer doesn’t work. Is it important and expensive to repair?



The bike it’s supposed to have 14.000 km



Thank you for your advice

 

[bushwa]

I don't have that setup on mine, but I'm assuming that with the PU, Arrow's and the Arrow box, it should run smooth. Mine is tuned with the JD jetting box, and with that it was possible to tune out the hesitation/surge apparent when opening the throttle at low rpm. I'd think you would have to replace the dash. If it was me, I'd put a Trailtech vapor or voyager in place of the stock unit.

 

[Rob578]

Power commander and Leo Vince pipe on mine, runs fine. It's still a big single with a bunch of stuff going up and down. If you plan to race it I'd be more concerned with the lower end with that many miles.

 

[DYNOBOB]

Hi

Next Friday I’m going to test a second hand TE630 2011 bike. The bike has PU, twin Arrow and the Arrow EFI. May be that the bike have the snorkel and the maze still in, I don’t know.

I doubt the bike has those modifications and still has the maze in the airbox.

I wonder if in this condition the bike SHOULD run smooth at low rpm, I mean, without hesitation nor crackle, surges, etc when I open the throttle

As I’m going to use the bike on dirt tracks, for me it’s a must than bike has smooth performance between 1500 to 3.500 rpm and, if I buy the bike and the only thing it’s left to do is open the air box, and this doesn't get the bike that I want, for me it will be like throw the money away

Yes, the bike should accelerate smoothly from and thru those rpm in the proper gear. Thumpers obviously don't like to pull tall gears at low rpm. Approximately 3000 rpm is the minimum for 5th/6th gear.



Also the Owner has told me that the trip has not light and the tachometer doesn’t work. Is it important and expensive to repair?



The bike it’s supposed to have 14.000 km

It would trouble me that the tach doesn't work, could be a sign that the dash is on the way out. At 14,000 km I'd look at wear on the countershaft sprocket and assume the clutch cush washers need to be replaced.

Good luck!

.

 

[motranqui]

OK, thanks a lot for the advice.

In 4 hours time I'll test it.. I'm nervous.

Anyway it's not good to buy a bike knowing that I have to replace the cush washers. Hope it will be easy to make.

By the way, I don't understand what means "lower end". May you explain it for me?

 

[DYNOBOB]

By the way, I don't understand what means "lower end". May you explain it for me?

Bottom end of the motor - crank, crank bearings, etc. Unless it was a race bike I wouldn't be worried about the bottom end at those miles.

.

 

[motranqui]

I've bought it. Soon new thread where I will show the bike

 

[bushwa]

Usually, but I'm rebuilding mine at fewer KM. the engine is on the noisy side, but if you detect a knock/rattle that you hear under very light steady throttle cruise and it goes away when you close the throttle, walk away.

 

[motranqui]

Hi

I wonder if in this condition the bike SHOULD run smooth at low rpm, I mean, without hesitation nor crackle, surges, etc when I open the throttle

As I’m going to use the bike on dirt tracks, for me it’s a must than bike has smooth performance between 1500 to 3.500 rpm and, if I buy the bike and the only thing it’s left to do is open the air box, and this doesn't get the bike that I want, for me it will be like throw the money away

Yes, the bike should accelerate smoothly from and thru those rpm in the proper gear. Thumpers obviously don't like to pull tall gears at low rpm. Approximately 3000 rpm is the minimum for 5th/6th gear.

The bike accelerate smoothly.. thanks God... that was one of the reasons why I bought it. Also if you open the trhottle hard, the bike pulls really fast

Also the Owner has told me that the trip has not light and the tachometer doesn’t work. Is it important and expensive to repair?



The bike it’s supposed to have 14.000 km

It would trouble me that the tach doesn't work, could be a sign that the dash is on the way out. At 14,000 km I'd look at wear on the countershaft sprocket and assume the clutch cush washers need to be replaced.

Good luck!

The ex-owner of the bike has give me a new dash. Besides the countershaft sprocket , the chain and the wheel sprocket are only 1.000 km old, so I'm lucky. Oil and filter changes every 3.500 km. The bike has been a pampered girl

.

Thank you

 

[motranqui]

Anyway it's not good to buy a bike knowing that I have to replace the cush washers. Hope it will be easy to make.

?

OK, I found information about it here in HuskyCafe and it doesn't seems to be a big deal

 

[EricV]

What Dynobob meant to say was look for wear on the countershaft itself (as opposed to the actual CS sprocket itself.) Look for play between the shaft and sprocket. Without the cush hub the countershaft splines wear fast (on some of the 630's, not all.) Replacing that, of course, requires a case splitting.