• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Brake Fluid Brake Pads

robertaccio

robertaccio

Husqvarna
Pro Class
I cooked my rear into 0 rear brake coming off some of the hills which generally wore me out compensating with too much front and with clutch/gear braking.
I have been using Maxima 550, my pads are new and are EBC reds my disc is the oem solid rotor. Let me hear what you hard rear braking enduro guys are using. I have a reservior extender all ready on the machine. I am thinking because we are not very wet or muddy here a more open (wave rear rotor) disc as well.
 
Robert on my Wr 250 i would over heat the brakes But then i changed to a vented rotor from a CR 250 and motoul brake fluid also better pads from Halls no problems now
 
Thanks John I am working on getting an open rotor/disc vice the solid OEM one, which is probably a little worn after 2 years . We are rarely in mud/wet here anyway.
The Motul 600 you said has also been recommended by a bunch of others as well. Honestly I think my main issue was settling for standard EBC pads that were in stock. So with the Motul 600 and fully sintered race pads, as well as a wave/vented etc disc I think my issue will end. (this was the first time for this issue)
 
step 1 will incorp use of Motul RBF 660.
2 will install fully sintered racing pads CM46 type Braking or equivalent SBS or other (my mistake for using the lesser/cheaper pads in this round of maintenance.)
3 Will price later model wave type floating rear disc/rotor.
 
robertaccio;135499 said:
...Honestly I think my main issue was settling for standard EBC pads that were in stock. ...
Click to expand...

Agreed :thumbsup: I don't think you need to change rotors to notice a big difference, just pads.
 
Found the EBC high end ones to be equal to all the other top brands racing pads in full sintered metal racing specification so I have those on order because they are readily available from PU. I have a bottle of Motul RBF660 waiting in my "inbox" at the shop as well.
I have an in at Braking and may be able to get a rear later model disc (the Husky 2010 models are wave type with perforations) that will wait for now. I just replaced my front disc.

MXS368 R and MXS181 F
 
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