• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Blown bottom end

jayvlnt

Husqvarna
A Class
Hey Guys

Thought id ask the question before undoing any bolts from here on in

Last week i was out riding my 06 te510 (going pretty fast on the road i might add) when the engine stopped, locked up and i started sliding down the road

After pushing the bike for what seemed like forever, i got it home and started the strip down process to see what had happened. And to that i came across a snapped conrod, that had broken on the bearing where it attaches to the crankshaft

Now I'm pretty confident with removing the head etc has i have done a top end rebuild on it myself before, but I'm not confident with the bottom

So here's my question, can anyone point me in the right direction of step by step instructions on splitting the bottom end so i can get in there and have a better look. Or any tips and tricks in doing so

Cheers J
 
Hey Guys

Thought id ask the question before undoing any bolts from here on in

Last week i was out riding my 06 te510 (going pretty fast on the road i might add) when the engine stopped, locked up and i started sliding down the road

After pushing the bike for what seemed like forever, i got it home and started the strip down process to see what had happened. And to that i came across a snapped conrod, that had broken on the bearing where it attaches to the crankshaft

Now I'm pretty confident with removing the head etc has i have done a top end rebuild on it myself before, but I'm not confident with the bottom

So here's my question, can anyone point me in the right direction of step by step instructions on splitting the bottom end so i can get in there and have a better look. Or any tips and tricks in doing so

Cheers J
Bottom end is a little too tricky for me. If you get stuck and want to throw in the towel I know a good husky dealer/workshop near you who wont rip you off.
 
Its all in the repair manual I think; just not sure where a copy can be found but there surely is one on the web ...

Good luck on the repair ...
 
I used online service manuals to rebuild my '09 450. It really wasn't that difficult and I did not need any of the "special" tools. You will need a press and pullers and patience. I would at the minimum replace the main bearings while you're in there. If you're able to use an oven to heat the cases and put the bearings in a freezer over night they almost drop in themselves. Good luck, it's really not rocket science.

Here is another site with the manual for your bike- http://husqvarnaoutlet.com/repair_manuals

to mate the cases I used this stuff- http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...h-temperature-anaerobic-flange-sealant-detail

What did people do before the internet?
 
You dont need the manual to take it apart, take lots of pictures and go steady it really is quite simple.
Loads of people will give you advice/suggestions but you did the top underneath is where the fun really begins.
 
I've cracked open many cases but my TE510 was my first Husky.......And the first Since GoPro came into play. Like JP says, take plenty of pictures. Or try what I did and let GoPro observe all the work. It helped me figure out where a certain thrust washer needed to go during reassembly. I missed it falling from the clutch side during the tear down.

I even had a little fun with the captured footage and made a video from it afterwords. Hey....it was winter and I had a lot of time on my hands.

http://www.xriderdown.com/Pages/TE510engineoverhaul.aspx
 
Ps is your profile pic taken near Wakefield/Ryhope/Toronto/Morisset area?

Yes my photo is taken at Dora Creek just near morriest and its where i do most of my riding!!

I used online service manuals to rebuild my '09 450. It really wasn't that difficult and I did not need any of the "special" tools. You will need a press and pullers and patience. I would at the minimum replace the main bearings while you're in there. If you're able to use an oven to heat the cases and put the bearings in a freezer over night they almost drop in themselves. Good luck, it's really not rocket science.

Here is another site with the manual for your bike- http://husqvarnaoutlet.com/repair_manuals

to mate the cases I used this stuff- http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...h-temperature-anaerobic-flange-sealant-detail

What did people do before the internet?

Thanks for the links ill get onto reading them and ill let you guys know how i go!

Ive found someone that can put the new conrod on the crankshaft for $75 so that the hard part done and ill be replacing the main bearing while i have it apart using sharpie1 method
and ill be recording and taken photos of the strip down

Thanks for the help guys
 
So I've got it apart!

Got the conrod ready to go in

And then i come across an even bigger problem
all the inside of the casings are smashed up
Littles bits off here and there they are totalled destroyed

Does anyone in Australia have a bottom end laying around? :banana:
 
So I've got it apart!

Got the conrod ready to go in

And then i come across an even bigger problem
all the inside of the casings are smashed up
Littles bits off here and there they are totalled destroyed

Does anyone in Australia have a bottom end laying around? :banana:

Sorry to hear it man, but good for you for dealing with it and glad to hear the lock-up didn't have a worse outcome.

Yeah, by the sounds of it you'll need new cases. That happened to me on my 630 (the cases being toasted, though it wasn't the con-rod it was the end piece of a small oil screen.) The insides of the cases were royally toasted- lots of cracks, breakage and scoring. It's easy for some to want to "patch it up" (and in some cases possible) but a real consideration is oil turbulence/distribution. In the tight areas (say between the crank lobes and casing) there's only like a mm there, and you need oil to flow right if the thing is gonna live a long second life. Good luck on your re-build!
 
Sorry to hear it man, but good for you for dealing with it and glad to hear the lock-up didn't have a worse outcome.

Yeah, by the sounds of it you'll need new cases. That happened to me on my 630 (the cases being toasted, though it wasn't the con-rod it was the end piece of a small oil screen.) The insides of the cases were royally toasted- lots of cracks, breakage and scoring. It's easy for some to want to "patch it up" (and in some cases possible) but a real consideration is oil turbulence/distribution. In the tight areas (say between the crank lobes and casing) there's only like a mm there, and you need oil to flow right if the thing is gonna live a long second life. Good luck on your re-build!

Thanks Mate!!

Just wish there was a cheaper option as I'm looking at a couple of hundred just in cases let alone the other parts

oh well all part of loving dirt bikes i guess
 
Thanks Mate!!

Just wish there was a cheaper option as I'm looking at a couple of hundred just in cases let alone the other parts

oh well all part of loving dirt bikes i guess

Ah yes, I feel your pain. I was initially hoping that my cases could be repaired but alas they couldn't...and the new cases (only sold as a set) set me back $1,200 U.S. That hurt...like really bad....but, as you said, all part of loving the sport!
 
Heck i wouldnt pay that!
would shove another engine in the frame or part it out confronted with that sorta spend.



engine_1.png
 
Ohh what is it? Was thinking of a 500cc macio or kawasaki engine, you can buy brand new zeble 500 engines still.
 
Heck i wouldnt pay that!
would shove another engine in the frame or part it out confronted with that sorta spend.


I felt the same...it was an evolutionary cluster-F. :) You see, when mine toasted the hope was that the case damage was repairable. If that had been the case then transplanting my internals back into the repaired casing wouldn't have been too bad. Now before that I looked into parting it out and buying another TE610 or 630. The fact was that after all was said and done I'd have been out about 3000-3500 to get onto another 610/630 of comparable mileage. I also wasn't having any luck finding used casings (630 was a one year production bike) nor finding any used engines. The route that I went was, by far, the most economical of the choices I had (readily granting that if I had the skills/confidence to do the tear down myself then that would have changed everything.)
 
Locical i guess, shame there wasnt a less costly option hope you get them wheels a turning soon!


Thanks man- I sure have. Just recently finished up the re-install of the engine and she's running again. :thumbsup: Good luck on yours!
 
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