Blond Moment

[duggoey]

I just cleaned and lubricated the throttle cable like I have done many times before, but this time when I put it back together it wont return to rest position easily when twisted.

The cables are routed correctly and are mounted in their clasps on both the handle bar and throttle body end. The cables themselves return with full force just on their own but when I install the housing/guide/retainer onto the bar mount it seems to be restricting the smooth movement of the return motion.. What am I missing?

 

[AlwynMike]

Cable at the side of the throttle cam, rather than on top?
Cable out of the plastic guide as you put the two halves of the housing together?

But I know you'll have already checked that!!

 

[duggoey]

Cable at the side of the throttle cam, rather than on top?
Cable out of the plastic guide as you put the two halves of the housing together?

But I know you'll have already checked that!!

Yeah. Thanks though

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

Something fell into the throttle housing, a piece of plastic or a dark pebble that you can't see?

 

[duggoey]

I made sure it was spotless and free of debris and grease. I am beat at how something so simple is not going back together.

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

Do you have handguards? Is your throttle tube cut at the end or is it stock/closed at the end?

 

[duggoey]

Do you have handguards? Is your throttle tube cut at the end or is it stock/closed at the end?

Yes handguards with cut throttle tube. But has been that way since new so no variables there.

 

[HUSKYnXJnWI]

glue instead of oil?.....

Take off the Throttle Body Cover and check that things did not get out of place there- it can happen that a cable is off the wheel when loose and you pull on one cable- letting the other auto retract...

look for cable flaws now- both ends.

 

[duggoey]

glue instead of oil?.....

Take off the Throttle Body Cover and check that things did not get out of place there- it can happen that a cable is off the wheel when loose and you pull on one cable- letting the other auto retract...

look for cable flaws now- both ends.

Still have the problem, throttle body cover is off and both cables are connected and spring perfectly when pulled. Its just when the housing goes back on that the motion is restricted.

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

Remembering back awhile since this happened to me, I couldn't get the springback that I had before, I did remove the return cable from the process, and have been running with just the 1 cable for over a year or maybe 2 now. I pulled the cable down as far as it would go and drilled a hole in the plastic cover of the throttle body and just looped the cable there. The action and springback of the throttle has been great since I did this. I remember that I also did this to a 1993 XR650L that I had way back when. I grew up with bikes with only 1 throttle cable.

 

[duggoey]

Remembering back awhile since this happened to me, I couldn't get the springback that I had before, I did remove the return cable from the process, and have been running with just the 1 cable for over a year or maybe 2 now. I pulled the cable down as far as it would go and drilled a hole in the plastic cover of the throttle body and just looped the cable there. The action and springback of the throttle has been great since I did this. I remember that I also did this to a 1993 XR650L that I had way back when. I grew up with bikes with only 1 throttle cable.

Thanks mate, I was thinking the same thing. Just having a play with it the other day I found if I only used one cable it would work. Out of curiosity, what are the potential consequences by running just one? Is it simply just a slightly firmer action to open? I know some if not all of my 2t's I've had/fixed have only had one cable.

 

[rappster]

by using just one cable it will make you way faster, plan on having it stick open, 4T's need the closing cable.

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

Thanks mate, I was thinking the same thing. Just having a play with it the other day I found if I only used one cable it would work. Out of curiosity, what are the potential consequences by running just one? Is it simply just a slightly firmer action to open? I know some if not all of my 2t's I've had/fixed have only had one cable.

Potential: Throttle gets stuck open and throttle tube cannot close throttle. It would have to be a major screw-up for that to happen, the spring on the throttle body butterfly is pretty strong, I haven't been worried about it.

It's a much lighter action to open the throttle with only 1 cable's friction.

I left the return cable in place so as to be able to possibly use it as a replacement in the field if the pull cable fails on me.

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

......plan on having it stick open, 4T's need the closing cable.

You're kidding right? I rode many 4 strokes and a few 2 strokes in the 1970's with no return cable on the throttle. When they came out, they were more of a governmental safety thing than anything else to us.

 

[HUSKYnXJnWI]

Duggeoy- check the throttle housing for defect, along with the throttle tube. Something inspired you to maintenance this I am thinking and it may be a symptom of what is now troubling you. Other than that make sure the housing is being assembled correctly. Also try turning the housing and tube at different rotations prior to tightening the 2 bolts- the degree of rotation can effect the friction on the cables. Also this is a standard throttle tube... right? not a tube with a bearing on the end... There's something going on- maybe you need another set of eyes.

I run 2 cables/OEM set up. personal opinion. I have had my throttle tube stick from various debris after taking a ground sample/grip getting mashed between handguard from the force of bottoming out- but could force the throttle closed. The 2nd cable/return is piece of mind that I can force the throttle closed- otherwise its just the return spring. I have heard of people getting hurt locally with stuck throttle cables=maybe myth/hype/excuses but the return cable is insurance.... Many have claimed to only run the pull cable- including very respected shops and technicians. I would not recommend this to anyone who asked that question ever due to liability and safety. I am just a guy on a forum but I can be sued pretty easily for giving advice- none of us are truly anonymous. My personal opinion leave it, and I don't want to make this an oil thread. Sorry I had to mention- not to battle correctness- but I do feel its that much of a concern that I could not something.

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

I run 2 cables/OEM set up. personal opinion. I have had my throttle tube stick from various debris after taking a ground sample/grip getting mashed between handguard from the force of bottoming out- but could force the throttle closed. The 2nd cable/return is piece of mind that I can force the throttle closed- otherwise its just the return spring.

If I get something jammed in the throttle tube, and that is the only thing holding the throttle open, and if I can get the throttle tube shut, the butterfly spring will close the throttle body off.

The only failure that the return cable protects against is the failure of the return spring on the butterfly or something jamming the throttle body butterfly open and if there's something in the throttle body, no amount of close throttle twisting is gonna close the throttle body off.

I haven't recommended anything to anybody, I just recounted what I have done, others have free will to do as they please.

 

[HUSKYnXJnWI]

If I get something jammed in the throttle tube, and that is the only thing holding the throttle open, and if I can get the throttle tube shut, the butterfly spring will close the throttle body off.

The only failure that the return cable protects against is the failure of the return spring on the butterfly or something jamming the throttle body butterfly open and if there's something in the throttle body, no amount of close throttle twisting is gonna close the throttle body off.

I haven't recommended anything to anybody, I just recounted what I have done, others have free will to do as they please.

here's my explanation- for what its worth. I may be worried about that 1/100 chance that you may not worry about.

If I open my throttle it pulls a cable that is mechanically connected to the throttle wheel, butterfly, and the TPS sences this.
I am Physically overcoming that spring on the Throttle body.
If I never take my hand from WOT how can the spring return to Closed throttle- it can't.
Now lets say I take my hand away from my throttle at WOT.
The spring returns the- Throttle and butterfly valve at the throttle body.

Now if I take my hand- away from my throttle tube and I am at WOT- and it sticks at the throttle tube like 'cruise control'- the Throttle Wheel/butterfly stays the same WOT- because it is mechanically connected all the way to the throttle tube by the cable.
If I don't have a return cable- I can put my hand back on the throttle and try to close the throttle- It may- or the throttle may but the cable can bunch up behind the place it is binding. It could bind at the throttle body because the cable is frayed- (had that happen)
If I have a return cable- I can put my hand back on the throttle and try to close the throttle- the return cable can mechanically close the throttle Wheel/ butterfly valve. Just as the pull cable opens it- its the reverse effect.

On many carbs that were not mechanically connected- like a CV carb- the slide could also hang up internally in the carb and a push/pull cable would have little/no effect in that circumstance- but this system is completely mechanically connected.

Sometimes setting up the cables so they run smoothly can be frustrating- balancing the tightness and eliminating the binding that can occur- but they can be set up to work perfect- one less cable makes that easier for sure- I just choose to keep both cables. I do buy into this as a relevant safety device- just some added insurance. Not everyone does. That's completely fine with me.

 

[268fords]

I always thought they added a second cable so no manufacture could be sued over a stuck throttle. All the kid bikes are single cable and they all can be adjusted so junior doesn't get crazy.

 

[duggoey]

Duggeoy- check the throttle housing for defect, along with the throttle tube. Something inspired you to maintenance this I am thinking and it may be a symptom of what is now troubling you. Other than that make sure the housing is being assembled correctly. Also try turning the housing and tube at different rotations prior to tightening the 2 bolts-

Throttle got stuck open on a rocky downhill and as result launched me a few metres down the hill. I don't know how I got away without injury. At first it was just a bit sticky so I thought it just required a clean and lube. I've tried different rotations, alignment of the cables and housing, changing the tension, shimming the space between housing, nothing left to fix. Besides buying a whole new setup I think I will try the one cable idea, all things considered. Cheers for the info.

 

[duggoey]

Potential: Throttle gets stuck open and throttle tube cannot close throttle. It would have to be a major screw-up for that to happen, the spring on the throttle body butterfly is pretty strong, I haven't been worried about it.

It's a much lighter action to open the throttle with only 1 cable's friction.

I left the return cable in place so as to be able to possibly use it as a replacement in the field if the pull cable fails on me.

Makes sense. Thanks again mate. For the record, I won't sue if I get launched again. Can't stand the thought of someone being liable for giving advice, just madness.