• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Bike needs cases split, ARGH!

XLEnduroMan

XLEnduroMan

Heroes Ride Huskys. The others follow.
I have noticed dirty oily film collecting under the motor on the skid pan for awhile. I just figured it was residual from oil changes as I hadn't removed the skid pan until now. I wiped up the gunk, washed it off with some degreaser and rode it a couple of miles afterwords. Everything looked good, no leakage. I took it out for a 40 or so mile loop today and I can see seepage between the cases behind the shock and a nice drop of fresh oil just hanging underneath the frame. I didn't even bother removing the skid pan for a closer look as I was to bummed out to do so tonight. I will remove it tomorrow but I know I will just find more fresh oil under my motor. I can not live with this and thankfully I still have warranty time left, but frick this bumms me out. I don't have the tools to do it myself but to be honest I am kind of scared of taking it to my dealer as their head mechanic has said twice that they do not have iBeat for the Husqvarna's they sell, WHAT? Him saying that makes me scared for my bike if I leave it in their hands.

What should I do? Contact another dealer and see if they are willing to do warranty work on another dealers bike? Buy the tools and do the work myself? ARGH!
 
I would not think significantly less of a dealer solely because they did not own an ibeat if they only sold a few bikes each year.

That is an uber expensive tool when purchased from Husqvarna, and quite frankly some of the details of how to use that are only on Cafe Husky e.g. afr changes vs CO1, CO2, CO3 changes.
 
Coffee;49739 said:
I would not think significantly less of a dealer solely because they did not own an ibeat if they only sold a few bikes each year.

That is an uber expensive tool when purchased from Husqvarna, and quite frankly some of the details of how to use that are only on Cafe Husky e.g. afr changes vs CO1, CO2, CO3 changes.
Click to expand...

Yep, I agree.

As far as getting warranty work done, though, there are no "rules" stating it has to be done at the dealer where you purchased your bike.

My 610 leaked like a seive when I got it. Fresh oil drops under the bike at every stop. Put an extra o-ring in the oil filler cap, re-sealed the valve cover, and one other thing that I can't remember at the moment. No more filthy motor. Pull the skid plate and the tank, maybe, so you can get a clear unobstructed view of the motor and try to figure out where it's coming from before committing to splitting the cases.

Oh yeah, after my first oil change the motor was puking oil like nobody's business. I was pretty upset about it til I realized the crush washer had fallen unnoticed into the oil pan and had not gone back in afterwards :doh: I dealt with it til it was time to change the oil again, which wasn't very long when it was brand new.



WoodsChick
 
I might get razzed for this, but my 510 has been weeping a bit from the day I got it (used). I found, initially, that though the oil appeared to be coming from that seam in the cases, it was actually coming from a bolt hidden back under the carb...beyond the stator cover (bad description, sorry). I replaced the bolt with a different one and the problem has subsided (but not stopped). It was also weeping a bit from that vent hose that comes out of the head cover...running down the hose, dripping off the frame and onto the floor. Some silicone gel solved that problem. Both areas made it look as though the bottom of the engine was leaking. It still weeps a bit from that bolt hole, but I just dab it off every now and then and check the oil often. In 3 years, its never been a problem.
 
I get seepage from the electric starter on my '07 TE 250. Makes for nasty, grungy cases under the coolant resevoir and in front of the shock. Next time you're in there, pull out the resevoir and starter and clean everything up really well--I've noticed a lot less seepage from that spot since cleaning up the o-ring really well.
 
My TC drips too, just tightend the bolts up a bit and it is better but not gone. I have no intention of splitting cases to fix a minor oil weep, I can't think of any risk to the oil weep, it's just a little messy is all.
 
whoa slow down,, retorque all the fasteners on your bike. go to loosen and then go to spec torque in.
Then check if it still leaks (then its a problem)

at @ 6 months use I noticed the same issue. I retorqued all hardware, many were loose from heat cycles, vibration, etc. I was even mad at myself for not doing that as the machine broke in at the very beginning.
PS use spec torque for all fasteners by size it is not very high for all the engine case screws and they are easily stripped if you get too strong with them, plus we noticed on the Husky that the thread depth of the screws into the case is rather shallow ( a lower amount of thread in than what can be found on other familiar bikes) shorter screws means less weight but also less thread grip. R
 
I have loosened and tightened all the clutch side fasteners, 17 I believe. The center cases need to be loosened and re tightened. Some look pretty hard to get to at first glance. 70 inch lbs. sound right? The water pump and cam chain tensioner appear to be goober free now after some tightening. I still need to pull the skid pan again to get under the motor. I realize I probably sound pretty .... over some oil, but it truly bums me out. The bike is without a doubt the best bike I have owned and I am extremely happy with it, but it isn't the cleanest bike I have owned. :cry:
 
While it isn't the RIGHT way to do it... there are some things you might want to try before splitting the cases.

I had a base gasket leak (oil to outside, no contamination of oil or coolant) on my KTM 625SMC. It's a relatively low strung bike, so I wasn't gonna have the cylinder off for any other reason for quite a while. I cleaned it very thoroughly and applied some RTV to the seam where it was leaking, and let it harden for a couple days. 10k miles later it still didn't leak.

Is that the right way to do it? No. On the other hand, IMO it's worth the $5 and 1 hour (had to remove some stuff to access it) to try before you spend a LOT more time and a LOT more money doing it properly.
 
^ Agreed. He is right in saying it is not the right way but it still is not wrong. I thnk sometimes RTV gets bad press but the stuff really is great. Case in point, I went to Nissan to buy an oil pan gasket for my wifes Maxima and the guy at the counter handed me a tube of RTV that said Nissan on it. If it is only a small weep then I would cover it up... However if it is drippingalot then maybe you should split them. Take it to the dealer and see what they say. Or at least call. Good luck.
 
I have not split the cases yet. It was still within warranty when I posted, but it is not now so it will be on me. I will be inquiring at a local mc race shop about ballancing the crank and maybe dropping off the motor and having them do it all. I lack some tools to do it myself. I can't handle my Husqvarna being oily. I will need to remedy this as I find myself thinking about it alot, almost every day. :busted:
 
This is an old thread and digging it up might seem silly, but I want to for the sake of the brand. After cleanings of the bike and more inspections it appears it is a rather simple problem. The oily mess starts up high by the starter and after enough time it will make it down under the engine. It has never made a noticable difference in the sight glass. A new starter o-ring and some silicone and it will be good. All I can say is...:doh: :bonk:
 
XLEnduroMan;93745 said:
This is an old thread and digging it up might seem silly, but I want to for the sake of the brand. After cleanings of the bike and more inspections it appears it is a rather simple problem. The oily mess starts up high by the starter and after enough time it will make it down under the engine. It has never made a noticable difference in the sight glass. A new starter o-ring and some silicone and it will be good. All I can say is...:doh: :bonk:
Click to expand...

Sometimes the simplest solutions are the best ones.
 
XLEnduroMan;93745 said:
This is an old thread and digging it up might seem silly, but I want to for the sake of the brand. After cleanings of the bike and more inspections it appears it is a rather simple problem. The oily mess starts up high by the starter and after enough time it will make it down under the engine. It has never made a noticable difference in the sight glass. A new starter o-ring and some silicone and it will be good. All I can say is...:doh: :bonk:
Click to expand...


The starter bolts communicate - they go all the way through. My 310 leaked like a sieve from those bolt heads - I've had luck using hi temp oil resist silicone on the bolts. I also silicone the water pump and cam chain tensioner bolts for the same reason.
 
I have to constantly tighten all the bolts on my '08 TE-510 after every second ride. They vibrate loose very easily. Yesterday, my clutch master cylinder screws loosened up just enough for the resevoir to leek almost all of the clutch fluid and created a massive air bubble. After two hours of riding my clutch lever was useless. Simple fix though.
 
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