• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

bike in water, what do i do next?

Irocleis

Irocleis

Husqvarna
B Class
Ok, so i basically wrecked into a retaining pond :applause: lol... luckily i locked up the brakes and caused the bike to stall out before laying it down in the water so im 95% sure there is no internal damage due to the compression of water. When i got the bike out of the water i removed the air filter, layed the bike on its side and got as much water out as quickly as possible. towed the bike home I did not try and start it or kick it over. Now i drained all the oil, removed the air filter, took out the spark plug. i pushed down on the kicker a couple times to rotate the valve and get some more water out, i also sprayed some WD40 down into the head (through the park plug hole) and kicked it over a few more times just to prevent any rust from forming. My bike is in my garage with the oil plug and fill plug still removed and the spark plug still removed.
What do I do next??? just let it sit a couple days? should i flush the crank case out with anything? I'm open for all opinions and if anyone else has been in the same boat.
Thanks!
 
Irocleis said:
Ok, so i basically wrecked into a retaining pond :applause: lol... luckily i locked up the brakes and caused the bike to stall out before laying it down in the water so im 95% sure there is no internal damage due to the compression of water. When i got the bike out of the water i removed the air filter, layed the bike on its side and got as much water out as quickly as possible. towed the bike home I did not try and start it or kick it over. Now i drained all the oil, removed the air filter, took out the spark plug. i pushed down on the kicker a couple times to rotate the valve and get some more water out, i also sprayed some WD40 down into the head (through the park plug hole) and kicked it over a few more times just to prevent any rust from forming. My bike is in my garage with the oil plug and fill plug still removed and the spark plug still removed.
What do I do next??? just let it sit a couple days? should i flush the crank case out with anything? I'm open for all opinions and if anyone else has been in the same boat.
Thanks!
Click to expand...



I'd check the tank doesn't have any water in the fuel, remove it & drain it, refill fresh fuel.

If you have someone to help, stand the bike on its rear tyre & wind the engine over a few times with the kick starter to pump out the exhaust.

Dry out the air filter, clean & re-oil.

Fill the eng. with oil again & run it.

I wouldn't let it sit, more chance of moisture causing corrosion. Getting it hot again will help evaporate it out.

I would drain the oil again once hot just to make sure.

You may have to repack stem & swing arm bearings too.....

Should be ok though, not trying to start it full of water is the key.
 
Dirt Rider had an article about this a few months ago, the basically submerged a YZF250 in a pool (several times) and then did basically what the guys are telling you too, go through the process as many times as necessary until the oil looks clean when you drain it (use cheap stuff for this process) I would pull the gauges, and take them apart and use compressed air to dry the circuit board. But I would go through everything and re-grease
 
I always take the spark plug out turn her upside down and hand crank here to get and gunk out. I flip her back pot in some fuel down the plug hole and hand turn a few times then flip and drai,n that should sort the top end. Replace oil twice as suggested, use contact cleaner on electrics, and WD 40 all the space under the tank and the throttle cables. Best to Dump the fuel, flush once then top off.
 
First of all, my condolences. All good suggestions above.

Though well down the priority list, once the most serious issues have been addressed and rectified I would add "Repack Silencer" to the to-do list. That's of course assuming your exhaust took in water (which seems a fair assumption from what you described).

As part of my regular oil change procedure the last thing I do before reinstalling the drain plugs is put the my bike in 3rd or 4th gear and gently push it around for about 50 to 100 feet. This helps it puke out the last bit oil and muck that would otherwise remain in the motor. (I temporarily attached an old mat to the downtubes, trimmed to stop just short of the rear tire to catch what spits and drips out)

I think this additional step would be especially beneficial in your circumstance where getting the oil up to temp before draining is not a viable option.

Lastly, I would pick up several tubes dielectric grease at your local auto parts store and after disconnecting and contact cleaning/WD-40ing each of the Molex (non-weatherproof) and bullet-style connectors pack the male and female ends which as much dielectric grease as you can possibly get into them before reconnecting.

The dielectric grease is not necessary for the Deutsch-style connectors with waterproof gaskets but I would still disconnect those too - spraying each end with contact cleaner or WD40 and leave them apart and facing down overnight before reconnecting them.

Good luck, hope you're back on the trails soon with minimum expense and downtime.
 
Thanks guys everything has been very helpful, I'm gonna go through the process very carefully and try to do all of which was mentioned to the best of my abilities ... again thanks for the quick and great responses
 
Lol - what is up with water this week? I drove my bike into a head deep river this weekend - and it was under power with an eventual cylinder full of water!

Oil changes - LOTS of them. Go get a gallon jug of cheap clutch compliant oil (non energy conserving) and two new filters. With each fill, allow the bike to reach full temp (fan on) while activating the clutch 100+ times. After 3-4 of these, put quality oil in with a fresh filter and call it done.

Looks like you nailed the rest. Make sure your airbox is immaculate (mine had lots of river gunk in it).

Get a tube of dialectic grease and check all the connections you have access to.

My headlight was full of water too - so drain that too lol!
 
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