Better fuel economy???

[Mr Sleazy]

Hello, all:

I have a 2010 TE510 with 4000 km on it now. Bike is overall good but getting very disappointing fuel economy out of the machine.

After bike had power-up done by dealer fuel economy (mix of off-road and street riding, no sand, somewhat gentle on throttle) was about 12 km / litre or 29 mpg.

Previously had a 2007 TE510, same engine but with a carb, JD jet kit, bike consistently got 18 km / litre about 41 mpg. Way better than the 2010.

This was not what I expected from a FI bike! Not complaining, just looking for ways to improve this. I don't mind giving up a bit of power in favour of fuel economy.

I don't have the power commander / autotune / ibeat stuff and really can't afford to get it. What I am looking for is suggested map settings to pass along to my dealer so they can try to tweak it for better (hopefully MUCH better!) fuel economy. I skimmed through the giant PC / autotune thread, and there are some bits of info there, but wondering if someone could lay it out all simple for me?

Like I said above, don't mind giving up some power, but of course don't want any overheating or serious bogging / dead spots.

Thanks in advance****************************************

 

[Coffee]

If the bike is working well enough for you except for the fuel economy, and you are getting a new bike every 3 years.. one viable option is to wait 18 months, and if the reports are favorable about the 449, get a 2013.

Other than that you could read reports for fuel mileage on the bikes that had PC V & Autotune installed or contact JD jetting and see if/when his kit is available.. I'm really not sure what the answer is. My 2006 TE250 gets much better mileage than the newer efi bikes.

 

[Fast1]

Is your MPG calculated from riding pavement, hard pack dirt, single track or sand? My 2008 510 is comparable to your 2007 when riding on hard pack dirt roads.

 

[HUSKYnXJnWI]

Co setttings in one bike do not necessarily translate perfect to the next. You'd have to lean out CO settings until you find it is effecting performance- I'd talk to the dealer/tuner who set it up. I know I get way better than 29mpg in mixxed trail and I am usually on the gas enjoying the power (vulgar display of power). I road both days of La-Barstow-Vegas and was told that they estamate 110-120 miles between gas- I have the 3 gallon IMS. You probably are on the rich side of settings.

 

[bbcmat]

1) set hard stop to allow 100.2% full throttle reading. The TPS voltage will end up being around 1006-1023mV ( hot bike, bat voltage 13+ when accepting value)
2) set idle air bleed screw to 2 3/4 turns out
3) Drop CO1 until the bike bogs at SNAP throttle inputs FROM IDLE in neutral
4) Add +0.3% to 0.7% to this number and leave it.
5) Take the average between co3 (100%) and co1 and make that c02

Make fine adjustments to idle air bleed to allow motor to cleanly transition from idle to about 3000 rpm under no load and slow throttle movement (hot engine). The hotter the operating conditions the further in it goes.

In powered-up mode this screw IS NOT AN IDLE ADJUSTMENT - it fine adjusts the idle and off-idle idle transition airflow.

If you find the bike reluctant to start in cold weather - take 3/4 turn out of the idle air bleed during warm up. Put it back once the bike has been running for a minute or so.

The bike is going to idle 1800-2150 when hot. I’ve spent ALOT of time and effort trying to change this without giving up throttle response and drivability (including purchasing the Husky special parts ECU) and it isn’t going to happen. It would take two pages to explain it.

When you need more power – turn the throttle. It will ramp the fuel/air ratio from cruise lean to power rich. You can squeak more economy by dropping co2 since it starting to come into play at 90+kms an hour (under cruise) but you’re giving up some linearity in the throttle response.

In cold weather cover up some of the frontal area of the rads (street riding). The EFI pours fuel into the bike below 80C water temps. It’s -2C here and I have both rads blocked from the bottom to the top of the cooling fans. It still overcools at 70+km/h cruise.

If your tight on cash set the co1 to 0.7% over bog – the little extra fuel is probably cheaper than going back to the dealer if you end up with an extra load of alcohol in the pump fuel you run.

IMO – having your own access to Ibeat is the only way to tap the potential of your bike.

MAT

 

[Mr Sleazy]

Thanks for the replies -

bbcmat thats what I am looking for - I will take it for a re-tune.

Fast1 - mileage from a mixture but its mainly pavement city riding.

HUSKYnXJnWI - good to know, I am certain it must be possible to improve fuel economy.

Why is it important to me? Long dual sport tour is in the works for eastern california in april, including crossing death valley n-s. Some of the crossings between fuel are 300 km. Currently I have the Safari tank, but won't make that distance with current fuel economy. Don't want to carry extra, and really shouldn't have to with such a large tank (4.5 gal).

Brian

 

[CrankN]

I see you have the JD X6. How is that working for you?
My friends 2010 TE510 is going through fuel like you wouldn't believe and he's not happy with how it is running. Thought i might put him onto JD. Their website is not running properly, is yours suited for a 510 or is it made for another model?

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

In cold weather cover up some of the frontal area of the rads (street riding). The EFI pours fuel into the bike below 80C water temps. It’s -2C here and I have both rads blocked from the bottom to the top of the cooling fans. It still overcools at 70+km/h cruise.

Since my bike has broken in and is now loose and cool running, I have improved my mileage from 30mpg to 40mpg by blocking the rads, prolly 66%, and I can open them while moving if I get too hot. i believe my system was dumping in fuel while the engine stayed too cool.