• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Beta 250RR Power Valve Adjustment

water racer

water racer

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Coming off a WR125 and Tc250, my 250rr power felt more abrupt than I was expecting, from all I had read about the bike. Everyone was saying turn the adjustment screw in to delay the PV opening, and when I did it seemed to make it even more abrupt with a hit later on.
So going back to what we learned on the wr125, I turned it to the more aggressive position(less spring pressure, PV opens sooner)
Now it is like magic, softens the bottom power, which is fine because it has plenty, and it is now a more linear pull all the way up because I think the PV is opening more gradually instead of all at once.
What do think Wallybean, am I on the right track?
 
The 300 is very linear anyway, but with more everywhere. Mine came with the PV set at the 250 spec of 1.5 turns in and it was a little too much too soon in the woods. The 300's 2.5 spec seems just about right to me, 2.0 if its sandy. The '14 250 is supposed to have a difffernt PV setup (spring, ??) that addresses the power delivery.

You could also try a NEDJ/NECJ, NEDW/NECW needle if you feel like experimenting. For years I used JD Blue needles in GG250s and liked the results. Problem was no half clip adjustment and when temps dropped power got abrupt. These needles are awesome in the GG from experience. I hear the same about the KTM so I see no reason why they wouldn't work in the Beta.
 
By preloading the PV spring you just delay the opening. It will open at the same rate it did without the added preload, but the ramp system will have to overcome the added preload before it can.

Holding the PV closed longer will make the hit harder, as you found out.

If you want it to open slower, then you need to go to heavier rate spring.
 
What I am saying is I turned the PV adjustment out, taking pre load out, allowing the PV to open sooner and more gradual thus making it more linear without the hit. Before I did that I turned it in about 3 turns and did not like it. It had two hits, one right off throttle and another higher in the rpm band.
I am very happy with it now, just brought it up because I did the opposite of what is everyone is saying to do.
The 250 may react different than the 300 to this adjustment.
 
Out of interest (not having owned a"modern" 2t, but a few older ones) how are the new beta's PV's adjusted? Is it a simple screw that is turned to preload/unload the PV spring? That is what I'm familiar with and am just wondering if it has changed.
 
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