• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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Best Magura Clutch Upgrade Options?

FReQRiDeR

FReQRiDeR

Husqvarna
AA Class
Looking for the best clutch upgrade option for the ’06 SMR. The master is junk. The slave is junk. Rebuilt both to no avail. Tired of having to remove the slave to bleed the air out! Couldn’t ride today because I was fiddling with the damn clutch all day! Unacceptable! Last straw. This system sucks more air than a Hoover vacuum! I could care less about the decompression lever. Don’t believe I’ve ever had to use it. I can always reach down and actuate it manually, if need be.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!
 
Zipty makes a slave body and 7602 racing makes a better slave piston. I guess you could get a brembo master like the newer models went to in 2011 I believe.
 
Oberon Performance make a complete slave cylinder, expensive but they use a double lipped seal on the piston instead of an o-ring like the original. You can upgrade the master to a Magura 167 "Gen 2", the OE is a 163 (assuming it's the same as the 2010)...

rancher1 said:
I guess you could get a brembo master like the newer models went to in 2011 I believe.
Click to expand...

The 449/511's use a brembo system with Dot4 brake fluid, the magura's use hydraulic fluid.
 
There is a version of a Magura clutch master that works with DOT 3 or 4 (I have one) although most are mineral oil. I also had the mineral oil Maguras on other bikes and they worked fine once I replaced the seal and put in fresh non-Magura mineral oil. I used hydraulic fluid from BMW cars (CHF 7.1 Pentosin) instead of the insanely priced Magura mineral oil and it seems to bleed and seal better for me too. I found it when I needed to bleed & replace Shimano mountain bike brakes and it worked better there too. One thing I liked about the Magura set-ups was the typically lower force required for clutching vs the stiff brembo setup on my 310. I'm not a weak guy but it just makes it easier to control at the end of a long day of single track riding.

Good luck
 
rancher1 said:
Zipty makes a slave body and 7602 racing makes a better slave piston. I guess you could get a brembo master like the newer models went to in 2011 I believe.
Click to expand...


I will give my 0.02 on the matter as I have had extensive negative experience with my 09' TE310...

Firstly, the stock components: While they seem like junk, are at least meant to function together. I had bought a new ZT slave and 7602 piston, and while each of these components may function perfect fine with their stock counterpart, they do not seem to work well together. Now, I did not have a stock piston or cylinder to test this theory out, but ill explain further on that shortly. I think the issue is mostly due to a tolerance discrepancy, not poor design intent.

Now, I am not point fingers here but I will say that they did seem to point the finger at each other. I even had 7602 tell me flat out that they have had other customers calling up with complaints of piston failure and when asked, said that they were using in combination with the ZT cylinder.

I became so frustrated with the whole thing after replacing the seal twice that eventually that took everything out and when with an Oberon slave and piston set. This way, I had a guaranteed fitment between piston and slave...much like stock components.

And yet....

The Oberon slave uses a paper gasket to seal against the engine while the ZT and stock cylinder seems to use an O-ring (much better IMO). Now, these are not supposed to be a high pressure seal, but their is oil cavities pumping oil past that slave...and yep, the Oberon paper filter just couldn't handle it...or at least couldn't handle it on mine. It leaked engine oil...more or less a drip, but leaking non the less and I just wasn't okay with that.

I eventually wound up using some anaerobic sealant between the gasket and sealing surfaces and eventually got it to stop leaking engine oil....all is well for the past year or so. However, if I ever need to take that slave off again, I will most certainly have to clean and re-apply that sealant....

SO, if you are going to replace either slave or master....I would take my experience into consideration before mixing and matching components.

Just my experience...take it with a grain of salt.

-Dan
 
2wheellove said:
I will give my 0.02 on the matter as I have had extensive negative experience with my 09' TE310...

Firstly, the stock components: While they seem like junk, are at least meant to function together. I had bought a new ZT slave and 7602 piston, and while each of these components may function perfect fine with their stock counterpart, they do not seem to work well together. Now, I did not have a stock piston or cylinder to test this theory out, but ill explain further on that shortly. I think the issue is mostly due to a tolerance discrepancy, not poor design intent.

Now, I am not point fingers here but I will say that they did seem to point the finger at each other. I even had 7602 tell me flat out that they have had other customers calling up with complaints of piston failure and when asked, said that they were using in combination with the ZT cylinder.

I became so frustrated with the whole thing after replacing the seal twice that eventually that took everything out and when with an Oberon slave and piston set. This way, I had a guaranteed fitment between piston and slave...much like stock components.

And yet....

The Oberon slave uses a paper gasket to seal against the engine while the ZT and stock cylinder seems to use an O-ring (much better IMO). Now, these are not supposed to be a high pressure seal, but their is oil cavities pumping oil past that slave...and yep, the Oberon paper filter just couldn't handle it...or at least couldn't handle it on mine. It leaked engine oil...more or less a drip, but leaking non the less and I just wasn't okay with that.

I eventually wound up using some anaerobic sealant between the gasket and sealing surfaces and eventually got it to stop leaking engine oil....all is well for the past year or so. However, if I ever need to take that slave off again, I will most certainly have to clean and re-apply that sealant....

SO, if you are going to replace either slave or master....I would take my experience into consideration before mixing and matching components.

Just my experience...take it with a grain of salt.

-Dan
Click to expand...

The first run of pistons that 7602 racing produced did not work well with the zipty housing. I went through this problem 9 years ago. My stock housing broke where the circlip sat. I replaced both parts and kept having issues with my clutch fluid disappearing. I tried replacing the x ring a few times and kept having issues. I emailed clay at 7602 racing to find out what was wrong. He asked me if I was using both his piston and zipty’s housing. He let me know that zipty’s slave cylinder had a different diameter than the stock housing which his piston was designed for. He redesigned his to work with zipty’s housing and he sent me a new piston free of charge( Clay is a very stand up guy). After I installed it, all problems went away. I haven’t lost any clutch fluid now for 9 years.
 
My 08 TC450 uses a mineral oil Magura system, when I first got the bike six years ago it had mineral oil or baby oil in it. It wasn't long that the master leaked like a sieve and needed to be rebuilt, but a new master piston didn't cure the scoring in the coating of the master bore. What did cure it was using 5w fork oil (got this tip from Xcuvator at the NW Gathering a few years ago). Fork oil has seal conditioners and anti-friction additives that mineral oil does not. My clutch hasn't leaked a drop since, even with the scored master bore. And I too am using the Zip-Ty/7602 slave combo, it works perfectly.
 
JonXX said:
My 08 TC450 uses a mineral oil Magura system, when I first got the bike six years ago it had mineral oil or baby oil in it. It wasn't long that the master leaked like a sieve and needed to be rebuilt, but a new master piston didn't cure the scoring in the coating of the master bore. What did cure it was using 5w fork oil (got this tip from Xcuvator at the NW Gathering a few years ago). Fork oil has seal conditioners and anti-friction additives that mineral oil does not. My clutch hasn't leaked a drop since, even with the scored master bore. And I too am using the Zip-Ty/7602 slave combo, it works perfectly.
Click to expand...

on my 310te 2010 I use a 5w Fork oil because the feeling is much better than when I used the 10w fork oil....
no problem since 90hours in hard condition.
 
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