• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

All 2st Best bet for more low end?

R

rotcorp

Husqvarna
Just got a brand new 2011 wr250. previous bike was a 2001 ktm 250 exc. When the power band hits on the husky its crazy! I don't mind that, but i don't usually ride in that part of the power. I like to ride a gear high and lug it in the bottom. This is not working so much with the husky. i've been all reading everything i can find and it seems that a new pipe (thinking FMF gnarly) helps. Also it seems switching to a keihin carburetor helps too. So my question is: If i can't make both of these changes, which will get me more usable low end power? thanks
 
For starters I would get the Husky race head. It raises the compression ratio which will boost the low/midrange power.
 
Admittedly, that's why I bought the 300 after riding both the 250 and the 300. I used to have a KTM EXC250 and I didn't care for the lack of torque on it either.
 
where would one get a husky race head? I'm actually not sure the gearing, i'll have to check when i get home.
 
Get a Powernow, 12t countershaft sprocket and a Steahly flywheel weight. That's what I've got on my 08 WR250 and it lugs great. I ride with a couple guys that ride a 300XCW and my bike lugs just as well as theirs does. Brad.
 
oregonsage said:
A 511 solves this issue nicely :-)
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Your digging that bike I see. :thumbsup: Something endearing (yes i just said that) about these 449/511 platforms. Always working for you instead of against you. Fun. Mine is a wheelie machine too. More fun. Ride more.
 
my gearing is 13 and 48. does anyone have an opinion about my original question? pipe vs. carb?
Motosportz, I saw on your site you have driven shift levers. I'd like to buy one of these.
i'm in portland. any change i could come pick it up to save on shipping cost?
-thanks
 
How does using race gas affect running temps and longevity before rebuilds? where can i find info on mix ratio percentages when using race gas?

cheers
 
Race fuel lasts longer without going stale and if you need it because of high compression it's better for your engine than detonation on pump fuel.

I have the stock head and gnarly pipe with a crisply jetted Mikuni and 13:50 gearing. I have a smooth but hard pulling midrange and a great top end that doesn't flatten out like it used to with the stock pipe. I run VP 110 because once I jetted it on the crisp side it tried to ping on pump 93 octane.
 
Bradass80 said:
Get a Powernow, 12t countershaft sprocket and a Steahly flywheel weight. That's what I've got on my 08 WR250 and it lugs great. I ride with a couple guys that ride a 300XCW and my bike lugs just as well as theirs does. Brad.
Click to expand...
For sure get the flywheel weight, eliminates stalling and runs more like a tractor
 
Bradass80 said:
Get a Powernow, 12t countershaft sprocket and a Steahly flywheel weight. That's what I've got on my 08 WR250 and it lugs great. I ride with a couple guys that ride a 300XCW and my bike lugs just as well as theirs does. Brad.
Click to expand...
where did you get the 12t sprocket ?
 
Motosportz said:
Have the head milled and the squish redone for by RB Designs for more compression and run race gas. EZ and quick / cheap solution for more low end power.
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There is no race head for the 250, just the 300. I agree with Motosportz, have RB do the head. The squish varies somewhat on the 250 which in turn increases volume. Not good for low end. Once it's cut down right you should see a huge improvement in low end.

Also, make sure your low speed jetting is right. Too lean or too rich can hurt low end, too.

Carb or pipe??? I'd do the carb after the head and then the pipe.
 
i know they make thicker and thinner base gaskets for the 125s. do the 250 and 300s have this option too? it allows you to change your port timing and compression at the same time but its way cheeper then a machine shop and youll have your stock parts if you dont like the outcome.
 
MOTORHEAD said:
There is no race head for the 250, just the 300. I agree with Motosportz, have RB do the head. The squish varies somewhat on the 250 which in turn increases volume. Not good for low end. Once it's cut down right you should see a huge improvement in low end.

Also, make sure your low speed jetting is right. Too lean or too rich can hurt low end, too.

Carb or pipe??? I'd do the carb after the head and then the pipe.
Click to expand...

My bad, I was told there was a race head for the 250 as well. I had Eric Gorr do my head, I think he raised the static compression from 8.4:1 to 9.0:1.
 
Dude! I couldn't watch the bike stuff! Haha. After watching it three times, I had to cover the hottie just so I could see the motor rebuild.

So what's with the PV spacer? Purpose? If you have the head reworked for correct squish, is race fuel needed?

I want more low end so if these are the correct routes, then I'm listening.
 
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