• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Battery not charging or battery no good?

JimxWar

JimxWar

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hey guys! This has been a issue for a while for me, and I have yet to get to a solution. Long story short, I purchased an EarthX ETX12A for my 2013 TE449. About a month and a half later, the battery wasn't being recharged from the bike. I recharged the battery a few times, but the result is a dead battery in a couple of hours of riding. Tried a second earthX, but the problem persists. Should I go back to a conventional style battery? Is the the alternator? Whats the process to test for the possible problem?

Really appreciate any advice. I've been torn just having the bike sit and I want to bring her to her full glory to enjoy the summer as she should. Thank you guy!

Jim
 
oh-oh.

It might be the infamous 449/511 rotor bolts taking out your stator. you better read this thread first (read to the end): http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/449-511-important-urgent-flywheel-inspection.45218/
a slight ticking sound sometimes accompanies this fault. If that's you: STOP... you may save yourself $500+ BTW, copper in the oil seen during changes is another clue, besides charging problems and noise.

put a voltmeter on your battery (engine off): it should be 12.6v or better (possibly bad battery if not) engine idling: approx 13.7-14.8v (I consider 14.2v perfect; bad charging system if you see anything outside that range). If you don't see these numbers, charge the battery and try again.

good luck.
 
Awesome, thank you for the info. Great place to start, I’ll be diving into this in the in the next upcoming days. I don’t recall any copper in the oil or ticking sounds. Hope not to get that $500 bill ha, but if that’s the problem it’s all good, just narrowing it down to get her back to the trails. Thanks again, will keep things update as I dive in.
 
So the bolts were all tight, but we’ve got some thick debris on two of the coils. Is there a way to save this, or are thes could fried
 

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you're okay I think... just potting compound if my fading eyes aren't deceiving me.

check for continuity between all 3 yellow wires (I'd guess something like 4ohms or less between 'em but I don't know for sure. and make sure none of the 3 are short to ground).

I'm pretty sure you're golden on the stator front. What did your voltage measurements show?



AND CHANGE THE BOLTS ON THE ROTOR! UNDER $5! THE STOCK BOLTS WILL FAIL SOONER OR LATER. DID YOU READ THE ENTIRE THREAD???

also, I hate to drive traffic away from CH but the FB group for 449/511s is pretty active.
 
It seems it’s short to ground. The two coils seemed to have some melted plastic and are bowed a bit toward the top where it got hot as well. I was looking into rewinds, but I’m wondering if it’s just better sense to replace it and keep the system fresh. I’m defiantly going to take care of those bolts. I feel extremely fortunate to not have had the issue as I see some have had. Not sure, but I feel as if the Stator started to fail a few months after o switch to an earthx lithium ion battery. Any speculation about this, or is that not really a potential possible issue?
 

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It's toasted, battery switch not the problem, looks like some debris caused the deformation on coil in last pic.
What does flywheel look like?
Would try to find where it came from, before replacing with a new unit.
Later George
 
The flywheel looks clean, smooth and shining. The bike had a little more than 5000 miles on it, and I do still get some metal shavings sticking to the magnet of the drain plug. Nothing chunky, just some fines, not sure if that’s normal at this stage of the game. I’m wondering where debris could come from to get to that point.
 
If you measured ANY continuity to ground, from ANY of the unplugged yellow wires- it's shot. (unless you're talking about megaohms, that is... what didja measure?)

what voltage did you measure idling?

the metal chunks and filings on the rotor magnets and oil drain magnet are probably normal. the black "stuff" on the rotor could be oil cooked on by high temps from a shorted winding. if oil gets hot enough it will carbonize into a grit.

it looks like the rotor hit your stator on the "bowed up" plastic. nothing major but it (stator winding) probably grew with heat.

if you get a new stator- save the old one. Or at least clip the wires to the pulse coil and save it. $$$, and you can't buy 'em separately.
 
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