• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Automatic Owners

R

redman

Husqvarna
AA Class
I have a '77' 360 auto and the seal that's on the arm that engages and disengages (think it's called the declutching shaft) the clutch is leaking. It's the one on the right side that the cable actually connects to. My question : Can I replace this from the outside without disassembling the motor ( of course I would remove the arm but the shaft would still be there ) ???

Thanks
 
It is possible yes. Better still to pull the side cover, main clutch and check the clutches while it is apart. It only takes 15 minutes.
You can disconnect the arm from the inside and make the job easier. No need to split the case as you would with a manual gear box.
 
I do not think I ever changed one of those seals. Does it really leak in any significant way? For the standard shift the shaft when pulled pulls the seal. I have had 420 and 430 apart but they engage somewhat differently, not even sure the shaft on them can be pulled. Chances are I could pull it out demo style without scarring the case otherwise I can not answer. I do not see how pulling the main cover and the main clutch as described in post 2 would help. What you describe on the right side would not be able to touch the way it seems to me. I would not break that taper on the crank any more than necessary.
 
Ok, thanks grouty. I'm was just being lazy. I just had the side case off to make sure none of the springs where broke, all was good so I reassembled. Just got the bike running after sitting for close to 25 years. I rode up and down the driveway twice and noticed oil on top of the case coming from that seal.

fran...K, yes when you pull all the clutch packs out you can reach through to the other side of the motor.

Thanks, again
 
First one pulls off the taper fit to the crankshaft then the whole shaft with the drum, clutch packs if you wish, comes out. The other shaft comes out with a plate around the sprocket. The only reason to split the cases would be to do crank or primary drive side crank seal work. I do not know if it counts as cassette or not.

I put a snip from the parts sheet for the 420. Looks to me like there is a bolt on piece to the shaft that once separated from the shaft will allow the shaft to be withdrawn but you are still looking at demo style removing unless you have some sort of seal puller. The 360 and 390 are somewhat different but chances are the lever still slides something along the shaft.
 

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