• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Auto teardown

dumpbear

dumpbear

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hello all you auto guys i'm getting ready to tear down my 420auto after xmas. I have ordered my spring retainer cover and a new set of primary springs.My question is would you replace all the springs for every gear? and if there is a broken or damaged spring do you replace all three or just the one that's bad. I have downloaded the teardown and rebuild of the army auto thanks for posting that Michel it will be very helpful, thanks in advance to all.
Tom
 
I have never broken any of the other springs so if not broken I would leave them, also on the 1st gear springs if they look good I am inclined to keep using them on the grounds you can not be sure on the provenance of the replacement springs. I save unbroken springs from sets with the idea if they have't broken they must be good!
 
I go with Steve. If they are not broken, leave them be. I polish the area around where the first gear springs fit in the shoes. No sharp edges and nice rounded corners. So far (touches wood !) I have never broken a spring. Re-cut the grooves in the shoes with a hacksaw blade. Check and clean any debris out of the first gear bearings on the crank. Do the same with the short auxillary shaft (very carefully !). When you have done this you will wonder what all the fuss is about. I have never seen anything so simple to strip, service and re-assemble.
 
Thanks guys for the info so it sounds like the springs that break are the primary ones thats good to know thats saves me some cash if i don't have to buy a set of springs for every gear i can put that money towards the tranny oil.Thanks Michel for the pics they are a big help.Merry Xmas to all.
Tom
 
The auxillary shaft has both needle roller bearings and one way (sprag) bearings. Be careful how you dismantle. As you pull them off the shaft you will need to turn them slightly otherwise they will lock up. Look to see that the little dog bones are still attached to the bearing (there is a small wire band). If you just pull them off you may find you have a lap full of very small pieces. Clean them gently with some solvent or such to get any bronze or steel swarf out. Make sure you put them back in the correct way. Otherwise you can have 4 reverse gears :D
Hope I've answered your question :)
 
Yes Grouty you answered my question and created another "turn slightly" can they be unlocked? I just cant put them in the parts cleaner and swish them around? Now your worrying me again:excuseme:
 
The best thing for cleaning the sprags is an aerosol can of brake cleaner. That should push the crud out without damage. It will then evaporate away (do it outside and don't smoke :)). You may find they are clean anyway, but best to check them. Check the surface they run on for damage (use your finger nail to feel for low wear points).

If you turn them in the "lock" direction they will become tight, turn them the other way and they free up and slide off. They are a very precise piece of kit.
 
What I've seen over the years is the problem is more the dog bone cage.If the cage is broken and won't hold the dogs then it leads to problems. A good bearing should be able to be removed,cleaned and the dogs stay in place.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top