• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Arrow ecu, relacement or piggyback?

kingmoochr

Husqvarna
B Class
Looking for a TE ecu, anyone with the arrow setup care to comment if it's a replacement ecu or a piggyback? If a replacement, anyone want to make a few bucks selling their TE ecu?
 
My Arrows came with a replacement ECU. Don´t know whether the TE and the SM have different ECUs (would have thought that they´re the same).
 
My Arrows came with a replacement ECU. Don´t know whether the TE and the SM have different ECUs (would have thought that they´re the same).

TE :thumbsup: and SM :thumbsdown: ECU's have different part numbers.
Especially below 4000 RPM they ride differently - the TE one is definitely the one you want !
 
We've confirmed the TE is better, I want to buy one from someone with arrows who doesn't need it anymore :cheers:

NEED MOAR WHEELIE :banana:
 
We've confirmed the TE is better, I want to buy one from someone with arrows who doesn't need it anymore :cheers:

NEED MOAR WHEELIE :banana:

I want to try out a TE ECU as well, I've heard the difference is even more dramatic than just the JD tuner alone. I've got the JD on my SMS and have no trouble toting a wheel and keeping it there with factory gearing, and I was able to tune out the surging and hesitation on the low end. Besides the JD, all I've done is opened up the stock cans and the airbox.
 
I want to try out a TE ECU as well, I've heard the difference is even more dramatic than just the JD tuner alone. I've got the JD on my SMS and have no trouble toting a wheel and keeping it there with factory gearing, and I was able to tune out the surging and hesitation on the low end. Besides the JD, all I've done is opened up the stock cans and the airbox.

And you´ve not yet done the p/u kit? It´d be the cheapest and the most effective mod ... more than all the others combined
 
I'm a wheelie newb, but it comes up easily in 1st. I can get it to pop up in 2nd but not high enough to stay aloft, and I have to bounce it. Haven't mastered clutching it yet. But I like a snappier bike anyway, Husky really did a bunch of stupid stuff with the SMS.
 
I'm a wheelie newb, but it comes up easily in 1st. I can get it to pop up in 2nd but not high enough to stay aloft, and I have to bounce it. Haven't mastered clutching it yet. But I like a snappier bike anyway, Husky really did a bunch of stupid stuff with the SMS.

Clutching up is a whole lot smoother and it pops up a whole lot quicker so you're not building a ton of speed and running out of gear so quickly. I can get it up in 3rd with the clutch and a little bounce, but 2nd gear clutch-ups are the easiest thing ever with no bounce/jerk, and once you get close to the balance point, you can hold it all the way through 2nd, 3rd and higher.

ETA: just make sure you cover the rear brake so you don't end up on the pavement butt-first. I adjusted my brake pedal as low as it would go for this reason, and because I'm 6'3"...
 
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