• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Anyone installed fuel line cutoffs to make GIANT Safari tank removal easier?

S

Stolenfant

Husqvarna
A Class
I finally found what I think is the perfect Dual Sport bike for me, '09 TE610. I do my own work and have only one regret: Removing the tank is a LARGE project, and it covers everything from the triple clamp down to the engine cases. Removing it requires draining the tank (best as possible), and tehre is no way to prevent whatever gas is in the tank from streaming out of the fuel pump all over the engine. Just no room to quickly/carefully remove QD and plug that fragile fuel pump nipple. Has anyone with a Safari or other large tank installed an inline cutoff or moved the quick disconnect elsewhere?

Clint
 
Don't remove the QD at the fuel pump. Remove the QD at the throttle body instead. It's a little harder to get to but the QD removes so much easier and no chance to fubar your fuel pump nipple. Also no need to drain the tank either, but if full of fuel it will be very heavy. Best to plan tank removal after running tank as low as you can.

_
 
Thanks SilverBullet, but that QD is impossible to get to with Safari Tank and supplied fuel lines. Do most of my work solo (no holding tank in one hand and operating disconnects with the other. I'm looking for a pair of "dry" disconnects VERY near fuel pump. I'm strongly considering threading the FP and going with custom hose/valve/disconnect setup. Love the tank, but it covers the engine/radiators nearly to the side cases, so tank has to be removed for ANY work. Planning for empty tank isn't always an option.
Clint
 
No it's not, I've done it solo twice with my Safari. Remove top tank bolt and cross brace, then from back of the tank to the front slide your right hand/forearm under the tank at frame. Your arm will raise the tank just enough to snake your left hand under the tank and blindly depress and pull off the QD. It's a tight fit but very doable. The QD at the throttle body is easy to connect/disconnect so doing it blindly is not an issue. Even works without draining the tank but a full tank would be a lot of weight pressing on your arm. If you have Popeye forearms you might need to enlist a volunteer.

_
 
Slight hijack:

I also use the Safari tank on a 09 610. I find that my brace doesnt work very well, the two retaining plates dont hug the bikes frame properly allowing far to much sideways play. So I drilled a hole through one of them and stuck a very large cable tie through it and wrapped that around the frame and cranked that up tight. I took the other little plate off.

That works OK for a few rides, holds the tank nice and secure, but the cable tie eventually snaps I suppose because it gets hot from the exhaust and weakens.

Anybody got a better idea?
 
SilverBullet said:
No it's not, I've done it solo twice with my Safari. Remove top tank bolt and cross brace, then from back of the tank to the front slide your right hand/forearm under the tank at frame. Your arm will raise the tank just enough to snake your left hand under the tank and blindly depress and pull off the QD. It's a tight fit but very doable. The QD at the throttle body is easy to connect/disconnect so doing it blindly is not an issue. Even works without draining the tank but a full tank would be a lot of weight pressing on your arm. If you have Popeye forearms you might need to enlist a volunteer.

_
Click to expand...
I guess that's why you're A class and I haven't raced in over 26 years. I knew when I replied I should "check" your idea better. I'm so busted. Anyway, thanks, I'll try that method. If no fuel spills, that must be a "dry" QD. I've considering replacing stock fuel lines with Motion Pro's dual disconnects and putting the QD's under the throttle body. I'll try your method first. Thanks!
 
alanB said:
Slight hijack:

I also use the Safari tank on a 09 610. I find that my brace doesnt work very well, the two retaining plates dont hug the bikes frame properly allowing far to much sideways play. So I drilled a hole through one of them and stuck a very large cable tie through it and wrapped that around the frame and cranked that up tight. I took the other little plate off.

That works OK for a few rides, holds the tank nice and secure, but the cable tie eventually snaps I suppose because it gets hot from the exhaust and weakens.

Anybody got a better idea?
Click to expand...
Marine rubber coated stainless band clamps (radiator clamps). Haven't seen them in a few years, but Port Supply (the old parent company of West Marine) used to carry them. I imagine other marine supply houses still do.
 
alanB said:
Slight hijack:

I also use the Safari tank on a 09 610. I find that my brace doesnt work very well, the two retaining plates dont hug the bikes frame properly allowing far to much sideways play. So I drilled a hole through one of them and stuck a very large cable tie through it and wrapped that around the frame and cranked that up tight. I took the other little plate off.

That works OK for a few rides, holds the tank nice and secure, but the cable tie eventually snaps I suppose because it gets hot from the exhaust and weakens.

Anybody got a better idea?
Click to expand...

Mine loosened up quite a bit after my last hard crash. Before realizing it was so loose I thought I had front end issues as the tank was bouncing around on me unknowingly and causing handling weirdness.

I was able to remove brace, tweak a little and reposition/retighten the two retaining plates making it passable for now. But next tip over however light it will be bouncing again...so

Long term remedy I will either drill a hole in brace and pass a bolt through front small loop on frame or a more sturdy fix will be to drill and re-position retaining plates and attach to frame with a U-bolt around downtube.

_
 
I have to join in and admit that getting my Safari tank off is just a b itch for me. No Popeye forearms either. I just can't seem to get the disconnect at the throttle body to release without literally hours of attempts. Eventually it lets go, but I'm thinking of looking for some disconnects that are much easier to use. It has to come off soon and I will take a shot at finding something better, even it it means putting a third disconnect into the line between the pump and the throttle body, as much as I don't want to do that.
 
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