Anyone in Nor CA good with 50mm Zokes?

[jsleeper]

Hi, anyone know of a suspension shop/tuner that is familiar and good with the 50mm zokes? All I need is to replace a blown fork seal, and am thinking about doing it myself, but I hate messing with CC forks.

I also do not want somebody who is unfamiliar bleeding them incorrectly, etc. etc.

thanks,
JS

 

[WoodsChick]

Hi, anyone know of a suspension shop/tuner that is familiar and good with the 50mm zokes? All I need is to replace a blown fork seal, and am thinking about doing it myself, but I hate messing with CC forks.

I also do not want somebody who is unfamiliar bleeding them incorrectly, etc. etc.

thanks,
JS

Hey, Joshua-

I just went out and asked Eric if he knew anything about them, but of course he hasn't taken mine apart yet. He always services all our forks and shocks, and we've pretty much had each and every brand at one time or another. Do you have a diagram or any type of schematic for them? I don't have a fork manual yet, but I do have a 50mm fork seal driver. Give us a call if you want and Eric would be more than happy to help you. Barring that, Les at LT-Racing is always helpful when we call with lots of questions

Edit: he's replaced fork seals on my 610, but they're different...

WoodsChick

 

[Coffee]

I'd still like to view this type of work being done at some point

 

[glangston]

I know this is not exactly answering your question, but here is the manual for 50mm Shocks.

http://www.husqvarnaracingclub.cz/images/home/ohqv/manualy/Ostatni/shiver50.pdf

Not hard to get to the part your interested in and most of the service instructions.

 

[WoodsChick]

I'd still like to view this type of work being done at some point

We'll give you a call next time I blow a fork seal

I know this is not exactly answering your question, but here is the manual for 50mm Shocks.

http://www.husqvarnaracingclub.cz/images/home/ohqv/manualy/Ostatni/shiver50.pdf

Not hard to get to the part your interested in and most of the service instructions.

Thanks, glangston



WoodsChick

 

[Phoenix]

Thanks for the manual!

 

[jsleeper]

Hey, Joshua-

I just went out and asked Eric if he knew anything about them, but of course he hasn't taken mine apart yet. He always services all our forks and shocks, and we've pretty much had each and every brand at one time or another. Do you have a diagram or any type of schematic for them? I don't have a fork manual yet, but I do have a 50mm fork seal driver. Give us a call if you want and Eric would be more than happy to help you. Barring that, Les at LT-Racing is always helpful when we call with lots of questions

Edit: he's replaced fork seals on my 610, but they're different...

WoodsChick

Thanks for the offer. I may take you up on it. I am going to look at the schematic and see if I can tackle it myself.

JS

PS: are you still planning on lowering your suspension.

 

[jsleeper]

I know this is not exactly answering your question, but here is the manual for 50mm Shocks.

http://www.husqvarnaracingclub.cz/images/home/ohqv/manualy/Ostatni/shiver50.pdf

Not hard to get to the part your interested in and most of the service instructions.

Thanks! If I am thinking correctly I do not need to pull apart the cartridge, just undo the bolt on the bottom of the fork leg. I should be able to do that. I have serviced the Honda/Showa forks before without too much trouble. Does anyone know how the Zokes compare to those....in difficulty...for changing the seals and outer fork oil only?

JS

 

[Dirtdame]

I replaced the blown lefthand fork seal on my 07 TE450. It was simple, just like doing a Japanese bike.

 

[WoodsChick]

Thanks for the offer. I may take you up on it. I am going to look at the schematic and see if I can tackle it myself.

JS

PS: are you still planning on lowering your suspension.

Yeah, it's probably the tallest bike I've ever ridden offroad. It hasn't presented any problems yet, but I haven't ridden it in anything gnarly yet, either. If I have to dab the bike's going to be halfway to the ground by the time my foot touches down, so...



ShortChick

 

[Dirtdame]

Thanks! If I am thinking correctly I do not need to pull apart the cartridge, just undo the bolt on the bottom of the fork leg. I should be able to do that. I have serviced the Honda/Showa forks before without too much trouble. Does anyone know how the Zokes compare to those....in difficulty...for changing the seals and outer fork oil only?

JS

Depends on what kind of cartridges you have. If you have the old open cartridge style of fork (no cartridge on top of the springs) like mine, you just remove the top cap and spring, then drain and bleed out the cartridge. The fork will separate with a few tugs as soon as you remove the clip that holds the seal in place.

 

[ghte]

Rocky Mountain ATVMM have a great "How To" video section on the net. It shows et al how to replace seals on both open and twin cartridge units.
It is well worth looking at their site.

 

[motosapiens]

Hi, anyone know of a suspension shop/tuner that is familiar and good with the 50mm zokes? All I need is to replace a blown fork seal, and am thinking about doing it myself, but I hate messing with CC forks.

I also do not want somebody who is unfamiliar bleeding them incorrectly, etc. etc.

I haven't had any zokes apart, but with kyb tc forks it's quite easy to replace a seal without having to touch the inner chamber, or even drain the oil in the outer chamber. If the zokes are similar, you just need to unscrew the bolt on the bottom of the forks, slide-hammer them apart while upside-down (the forks, not you), replace seal, put back together, and live happily ever after.

 

[jmetteer]

The 50mm TC Zokes are a dream to work on. I recently did a spring change on them back to back with a set of Showa TC forks. The zokes took about 45 minutes start to finish. The showas took about 2 hours and in the end I had to have my wife help because it takes 3 hands to get them apart and put them together...

I have done a couple sets of fork seals on them also and it really is simple. You don't have to mess with the inner chambers at all but proper bleeding and fresh oil makes a huge difference in performance.

Later,