• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Another sheared flywheel woodruf key.

R

R_Little

Husqvarna
Pro Class
While waiting for the valve lapping compound and Prussian Blue to arrive in the mail, I pulled out my "extra" crank out of my parts motor and lo and behold, that flywheel key was shearing off that crank too!

Not all the way but maybe 30%. When I tried to pop the key out it sheared the rest of the way off, so now I have a flat key stuck in the crank slot, similar to the one in my bike now.

Anyone got a sure fire way to get it out? I've heated it in case there was any loctite on it but no move.

I want to get the system down before I start working on the one on the bike.

Don't want to mess up the crank end.

I beginning to think when they "x-lighted" this motor they took a little too much material off the crank and flywheel mating surface.

Thanks
 
Woodruff keys can be very difficult things to remove without resorting to brute force. Try a punch of the closest size to the width of key, first holding the punch in line with the shaft and on the end of the key, tapping with a small hammer. If the key doesn't budge try holding the punch at right angle to the shaft with the punch at the end of the key tapping straight down. The key should rotate in the keyseat until you can grab it with some vice-grips and pull it out. Of course this only works this easily in a world which is damn near perfect!
 
Something else to try: apply some super cold stuff to the broken key, hopefully it shrinks and then you can tap it out with Freaky's techniques above

TPnvR8ZlmdPQCt9w3PMNOGL1ZR4zfKk1j1m5gh6FisKsZoQiHEW5gA_G93mYIRmY-YgNZY9EjCyYhPfp_w-I70Z2500HKXMiggB5uM636PFOmiFaZCBUmbmEwMK91dTU6nJZ14aqa_RmrLXEcGKKDB8XJ8N5tcimjtHP9O9RijqJ4AAbA64ilFYuuIzWTg9QaYkJk1DFpIo3PiwYwFNstonuRjyl6FJf-z7-rsew5yMW6W4Z8yMC7vwyOTK_KwrnqkVrm3_0_aeeOg-9f8rosohgbdFo2QJzJNTjH9a7JP8fp0DPgnT3LMafZTLUaMB6pdFsRPL92nv7EdvnGVh2HUAJG5hjUQncr7_IGKY3lPBtWoym8Tkh0D-Es4dKxB1VRO9he2-AbZvkR0CU60XpEwwAiOWTte62mFWRpo6Vw6LuYw
 
Another thought which has worked for really stubborn keys is to chain drill it to weaken its grip on the shaft.
 
Freaky said:
Another thought which has worked for really stubborn keys is to chain drill it to weaken its grip on the shaft.
Click to expand...

Good idea....if I can keep from drilling the crank! I'm also thinking of tapeing up the crank end to ward off damamge and using a dremel to grind a slot in the middle of the key.

First I"ll grind a screwdriver just narrower then the slot and see if I can tap it underneath the key from the front.

What a PITA.
 
Freaky said:
Woodruff keys can be very difficult things to remove without resorting to brute force. Try a punch of the closest size to the width of key, first holding the punch in line with the shaft and on the end of the key, tapping with a small hammer. If the key doesn't budge try holding the punch at right angle to the shaft with the punch at the end of the key tapping straight down. The key should rotate in the keyseat until you can grab it with some vice-grips and pull it out. Of course this only works this easily in a world which is damn near perfect!
Click to expand...

This one is not going to rotate!

The pressure of the slipping flywheel has pretty much swelled in in the key slot.
 
Good idea on the Dremmel, a decent small cutting disc straight down the centre would loosen it.
 
Freaky said:
Good idea on the Dremmel, a decent small cutting disc straight down the centre would loosen it.
Click to expand...

than again...chain drilling might allow me to grab it again with pliers.

If I can sneak out of the house tonite I'll try it.

My wife is tired of watching me work on that "piece of junk" bike!
 
Ha, Ha. Well I got the key out of my spare crank. drilled 3 5/64 holes straight as an arrow and my estimated depth was perfect by chance. No damage at all to the key slot. Good practice.

I'll use the removed key and try to replicate in on the key in the bike.

Anyway the newer flywheel has a tighter taper.

It's tighter by 50 thousands in the front about the same in the back.

Flywheel in the bike is stamped week 24 of 2009 production....and the new one is stamped week 48.

The ignitions are stamped 23 and 49 respectively.

Don't know if they changed anything?

How can I find out?
 
I've measured both flywheels.

The week 48 flywheel is tighter in the front. The 24 week flywheel is more open in front and when I put Prussian Blue on it I noticed the taper on the old flywheel does not even touch the crank in front. They both measure and go in the same

They have the same part numbers so I guess there is more clamping area on the new flywheel.

It must have been a production "improvement".

I'm debating whether to use Loctite 609 on the flywheel when I put it on.

I want to be able to remove it if the starter is affected by the new flywheel.
 
WbCherry said:
Would you guys be interested if TrailTech made a flywheel for us with different/ better balancing?
Click to expand...

Would that keep it from breaking loose?

I wonder why Husky only sells flywheels together with the stator.

Are they matched for some reason?
 
How many folks would be interested?
With poorly balanced flywheels, it means we all have exactly the same problem (with only some of the woodruff keys actually shearing).
 
hi guys...what bikes are we talking about?

Geno...how ya doin?

Andy just spun a flywheel on the '12 TXC250 with about 5 hours on it. After some phone call they say they are finding some not torqued correctly.

They took care of this for us, hope it does not happen again!
 
R_Little said:
It's tighter by 50 thousands in the front about the same in the back.
Click to expand...

The taper is different by .050? Are you saying that the diameter of the taper at the small end is .050 different between the two parts and the big end is the same? That can't be right. Morris tapers should match to within .004/foot. The parts that you are working with likely use a different taper than the standard Morris taper, but the tolerances must be about the same. I'm guessing that the shaft you are measuring is much less than a foot long, so the tolerance must be .001 or less. Either your measurement is wrong, or one of those parts is junk. If you were shearing keys, then I'd guess the mis-matched taper could be the problem. What does the contact pattern look like with the bluing on the shaft?
 
MorrisBetter said:
The taper is different by .050? Are you saying that the diameter of the taper at the small end is .050 different between the two parts and the big end is the same? That can't be right. Morris tapers should match to withing .004/foot. I'm guessing that the shaft you are measuring is much less than a foot long. Either your measurement is wrong, or one of those parts is junk. If you were shearing keys, then I'd guess the mis-matched taper could be the problem. What does the contact pattern look like with the bluing on the shaft?
Click to expand...

On the old flywheel the taper is relieved about .150" from the crank end. This means the old flywheel is not tapered all the way to the end. For the front .150" the old flywheel does not touch the crank. The old flywheel does not touch the Blue at all in that last .150" Contact length on the old flywheel is about .500"

The new flywheel is tapered to interfere with the crank all the way to the end and the blue is displaced all the way to the end. Contact on the new flywheel is about .650"
 
Good news. The sheared key came out with about 6 taps of a punch. I was bummed to feel a huge ridge on the end of the crank but it turned out to be just some green loctite left on the crank.

Before I put the lapping compound on the flywheel and crank I have to remove the starter ring gear to avoid getting lapping compound in the bearing. It pulls off a touch then stops. Anyone know an easy way to pull it off.

Thanks
 
R_Little said:
On the old flywheel the taper is relieved about .150" from the crank end. This means the old flywheel is not tapered all the way to the end. For the front .150" the old flywheel does not touch the crank. The old flywheel does not touch the Blue at all in that last .150" Contact length on the old flywheel is about .500"

The new flywheel is tapered to interfere with the crank all the way to the end and the blue is displaced all the way to the end. Contact on the new flywheel is about .650"
Click to expand...

Oh, OK. That makes more sense. Jeez, I was picturing the entire thing wobbling like a drunken calypso dancer.
 
MorrisBetter said:
Oh, OK. That makes more sense. Jeez, I was picturing the entire thing wobbling like a drunken calypso dancer.
Click to expand...

It's not that bad at all... actually the engagement is about 1". The Prussian blue shows an even fit all around.

I'll just lap it a little. The Manual says to coat the mating surface with oil....does that make sense?
 
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