• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Aftermarket alarm install assistance

kjackbrown

kjackbrown

Keep on keepin on.
Hey all,

I am trying to find the best place to splice in the "starter disable" wires (2) for an alarm I got a while back. The alarm instructions basically say to cut the bikes wire that goes high (12v) ONLY when the the start button is pushed and attach them to the two starter disable wires on the alarm.

I ran a meter across the wires on the alarm and it appears that when the alarm is set off (siren blaring and all that stuff) both of the alarm starter disable wires go to ground (verified by checking continuity between batt neg terminal and each alarm wire) for about 15 seconds or so and then go back to an open state.

Also, I attached the wires that flash the blinkers to the rear blinker wires and it seems that those are the only ones that flash when the alarm is set/triggered/deactivated. The fronts do nothing with the alarm inputs. It appears these bikes have seperate circuits for front and rear indicators...seems kinda odd to me. Anyways, it looks like I need to run the alarm flasher wires to the headlight assy and find the factory flasher inputs and tap them in there, right?

I am ataching a TR650 wiring diagram that was recently passed on to me. It is for a ABS version but mine is a non-ABS Terra...I doubt that matters much though. Anyways, could someone with electrical knowledge please take a look at the attached wiring diagram and direct me to the proper locations for splicing in the starter disable and alarm flasher wires? I have looked at the diagram a few times and get a bit lost when trying to track wires on it with my laptop. I printed the diagram out on Ledger size paper but it is still too tiny to read! I have a plotter here at work but don't want anyone to ask why I am pringting motorcycle stuff on it.

Any help is appreciated!

Kev.
 

Attachments

Assuming these bikes actually have the chiped key, I don't think it is possible to start the bike without the key, so not sure I would wire up that feature. I think the job of the alarm would be sounding if the bike is moved.

The lights flashing, though, agree, that would be good.
 
Hmmmm...didn't think of it that way. :thinking:

I got the rears to flash, just need to get the fronts to flash with them. Blinkers still work as they should. Maybe I need to find the Hazard relay and tap into that?
 
According to the schematic you posted it appears that you could tap into the Red wire between the Starter and the starter relay (X9131 & X9130). But wouldn't the alarm only sound for about 1 second until that motor starts?

Not sure how someone, or a group of someones could break the steering lock then disable the immobilizer, start it and drive away (which is the scenario where your alarm would help). Seems much more likely they would use a tow truck to just lift it and drive away with it dangling then part it out - in which case the alarm would do little good, I think?

EDIT: I suppose if the power is actually removed from the starter because it is going through the alarm, the alarm would not allow power to the starter unless the starter is disabled?

EDIT: I edited the above in the last 10 minutes - sorry! Got the post wrong..
 
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