• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc '92 WXC 360 rear wheel bearing removal?

Dauer

Dauer

Husqvarna
AA Class
As the title states I'm attempting to remove the rear wheel bearings on my '92 WXC 360 with no positive results. I did a search as I assumed this is not unchartered territory and saw mention of a snap-ring but that seemed to be on later model WR's, and saw no mention of a snap-ring in the '99 service manual I have, is this correct? I removed the threaded seal with the notches in it on the sprocket side then flipped the wheel and attempting to tap the bearings out by using a drift against the lip of the inner race and hitting the drift with a hammer. The issue I'm having is that there just doesn't seem to be enough surface area to get a good purchase on the lip of the inner race and my drift pin just keeps slipping off. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
 
once you have the threaded piece out, they just bang out, punching thru from the opposite side like you say. there is a tube in the middle, centered by piece of foam...may have use the drift to push the tube aside a tad to get a hair better grip on the inner race. the bearings are probably holding the tube from moving out of the way, good luck!...im personally not a big fan of the threaded seal retainer...
 
Thanks, I was afraid you would say that. Assuming they are all pushed out through the sprocket side, what about putting an appropriately sized socket on the inner race of the rotor side bearing and trying to drive the whole assembly through, too much resistance?
 
if i remember right i believe they have to be pushed out, as at least one side there may be a ledge the bearing sits against, so you cant just drive them all out as one. is your punch ground sharp and flat on the end? sometimes you have to really lean on the punch to pressure against the bearing race to keep it from slipping. the punch i use is about a foot long so i can put the side of my palm against it while i strike it. heating the hub up a bit can help as well.
 
I believe my punch leaves a bit to be desired, it's only about 7" long and the end is deformed from previous use. Think I'll grind mine to have a bit of a more defined edge and give that a try. Just to clarify is there any sort of retainer seal to be removed on the rotor side? As mentioned previously I already removed the threaded retainer from the sprocket side and there is some sort of seal on the other side but it's definitely not threaded, I attempted to leverage it out a bit with a flathead screwdriver but didn't want to go at it too hard for fear of destroying.
 
the spacer if it is not too tight to the bearings can be moved
they are wrapped in foam to self center for axle install
 
on the disc side there is a seal that should just be driven out by the bearing when its driven out..the seal is a holder for a lil spacer. at least this is how my 95 is. for sure if you have a circular punch, grind it flat nosed so it has a nice sharp edge all around to bite with. try to leverage that tube in the center over a bit to get a bit more bite.
 
Right on, thanks guys. This is all very helpful info. I'm going to fine tune my drift and take another hack at it. Still waiting on the new bearings to come in so time is on my side. Oh and that's that whole issue of my bike not having an ignition, did I mention that? ;) Just crossing some maintenance off the list while I figure the ignition out. Next is rear shock bushings.
 
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