• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

87 WR430 disc brake conversion

just remember that all the swede bearings are std SKF numbers usually purchasable from any bearing service and if you in the know, you can get em trade... I think I paid 68 bucks for all the bearings for the gearbox in the 400. cheap as...(don't ask me about quality, I never checked...)
 
So, turns out the later model hub will not lace to the gold swede rim. The angles for the spoke nipples are all wrong. I ended up relacing the newer rim back on. The wheel end is sorted now. Need to complete the master cylinder mount / reservoir mount and we are done. And a tire; I've a DOT rated tire on the way. image.jpeg
 
Here is how I am mounting the caliper; I need a few odd parts to finalize the fitment.
 

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suprize said:
just remember that all the swede bearings are std SKF numbers usually purchasable from any bearing service and if you in the know, you can get em trade... I think I paid 68 bucks for all the bearings for the gearbox in the 400. cheap as...(don't ask me about quality, I never checked...)
Click to expand...
The wheels and the engine seem this way. Swingarm and linkage bearings seem to be special runs ordered from the bearing manufacturer. It isn't to say one can not find a needle bearing the same size but the arrangement of the needles (cage or no cage) and the one 0 ring are not in catalog. At least that is what I have found. Even the cagiva group sold maximum capacity no cage and no o ring for replacements.
 
never had a drama with needles, just getting them out or back in is a mission without the correct driver
 
suprize said:
never had a drama with needles, just getting them out or back in is a mission without the correct driver
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A bit of water and not much grease and a lengthy park in the shed can cause some dramas Surprize. All the bikes I have bought have had knackered needles.
 
Nice brake conversion. Hope the reservoir stays up-rite. A couple hose guides on the swing arm would give it a "finished" look. Very nice set up. :thumbsup:
 
I rekon its all about the first owner..if they greased the units with water proof grease, it seems to hold them in good stead. the 510 I got was husky prepped and 30 years later and 3 owners I grab the swingarm axle and slide it out by hand. quick clean and regrease and its all good. the 400 was the same (California bike, no water....) and lots of shed time... but I had to recently replace some needle rollers in a kato 2005 now what a mission that was!
 
oldbikedude said:
Nice brake conversion. Hope the reservoir stays up-rite. A couple hose guides on the swing arm would give it a "finished" look. Very nice set up. :thumbsup:
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Thanks. I've been studying on the hose clamps but have yet to decide how to keep a drilled/threaded hole from allowing water inside the swingarm. Suggestions?
 
Darrel78 said:
Thanks. I've been studying on the hose clamps but have yet to decide how to keep a drilled/threaded hole from allowing water inside the swingarm. Suggestions?
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there are a few holes now in your swingarm, such as the screw holes for the wrap around chain guard
 
I think as long as the holes were tapped...a little silicone sealant (or blue lock tight) on the bolts would seal it when bolt is tightened. 2premo is right...you should get a shock guard if you don't have one.
 
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