• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

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83 vs 82 rr wheel

Eurofreak

Eurofreak

Husqvarna
AA Class
There's an 83 18" rear wheel I can get for my '82 CR 250any difference between the 82 and 83 hub as far as re-using my rear brake?
 
I think it is 84 and the aluminum swingarms that the backing plate and hub fit together differently than those. I do not have much cr stuff but isn't the actual shoe contact on the drum narrower than the xc/wr. I have switched even with the conical hubs and equal length spoke hubs in those like you ask about.
 
I have swapped wheels from my 84 wr to my 82 wr with no issues. I think the newer wheel has a 2 piece spacer on the left side. Not sure that the older 1 piece will work. I can't remember if I used the 82 or 84 brakes with it tho. Sorry
 
With one the water lock brake back plate sits flush inside the rim. This is 18" wr rim. The cr back plate seals on the outside groove but the rim is 17".
 
My 83 sheet is pretty blurry. the 82 sheet does show cr vs the others one digit different in the parts number. I have a feeling the cr wheel fit on the xc plate that does not mean it will work easily the other way around. I could see the previous shoe contact was less but the brake drum was deep as the other, at least the way I recall. Best to test in person. What the other wheel (post 1) came off was not specified anyway. When one gets stuff used from someone you do not know that bought it new hard to be certain about much. At least the Nordsk rims are dated so it is likely I can figure out which wheel came in what deal.
 
The 82 125,250,430CR rear hub and the 83 125,250,430CR rear hub are the same. Part # 151681701

Marty
 
Thanks Guys. The wheel is a WR. So now I know I need the complete ass'y or lace up a rim. I have an extra 18" rim, maybe that's the way to go.
 
The Husqvarna spec sheets call for a 5:00-17 or a 500:18. I use the IRC volcanduro VE33 5:10-17 or 5:10-18. For 250's, 390's. On my cr430 and cr500 they will get the IRC M5B 140-18.
 
overtiring a 250 is a common mistake, its best to try to get a tyre that will get grip but let you spin it up a bit to avoid front washout. this applies to racing, but for trailriding, a bigger tyre will get you more grip but you can get pushing of the front a bit but getting to the top - through the bog holes etc, go for a bigger footprint.
 
On the 250's I drop the front sprocket a tooth and let the rear tire spin. Late 70's thru early 80's.

Suprize I'll take your advice and look for a 130-18 rear tire for my current 250 build.

The 80cc/100cc/200cc bikes take 100/100, 110/100 tires. All my husky bikes had big orginal tires. My engine in my 81/250cr was built so no lack of power there.
 
My 82 has no low end. Larger tire makes it easier to bog -too much traction. I want to spin the tire at the start and control it with my clutch.
 
try to get a lower profile tyre as well, less weight and easier to spin up when you need to get things happening in a hurry. ive found some of cheap and nasties actually work ok (for the money) unless your racing for sheep stations, national titles etc, a budget tyre can be great value. my last tyre, (holding up well) was A$70 at a closing down sale. its been very good. not once have I thought "POS tyre!" its hooked up every time ive needed it to ...:cool:
 
I get discounted Kendas and Vee rubber so I spend $50-55 US for a back tire.
Tire on it now is not good for mud- very few choices in a 17"
 
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