• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

82 xc/cr frames

I agree. And the stock fork springs don't help. They are longer than needed so they install with too much preload, so the front doesn't settle well in turns. Also, the spring rate is VERY soft by today's suspension strategies, so they ride low and bottom when you're up on the pegs hitting stuff.

Race Tech sells a good spring for this 40mm fork that you can set up well. I run the .44's.

For a cheap temporary fix, you can cut the stock springs so that they install with 3-5mm preload when you use a 2" spacer.

You can run the single shock triple clamps which have more offset and reduce the trail a bit. This helps reduce the "over center flop" that the stock geometry has.

Use the straight rather than angled-back handlebar clamps for a more modern feel over the forks.
 
you can just rotate the angled clamps thru 180 to get that forward modern feel. those early frames were targeted at the American "desert" market with legendary straight line stability but slower turning...working on getting the forks right and getting up on the tank and working hard to get the corners right
 
If you have your Ohlins rebuilt at any point, replace the first compression shim with a 2-hole rather than 4-hole face shim. This will increase low speed compression damping and hold the rear of the bike up better in corners, but it only slightly increases high speed damping, which the shock needs as well, so it does not tend to add any harshness. You can see the shim in this photo, the one closest to the piston.
IMG_6963.jpg

Some models also have an aluminum spacer in the shock as a travel/full extension limiter. If you remove it or use a slightly shorter one (again, at time of rebuild) and reset your sag from this new, higher extended length, they will also turn better. I like this mod on my WR because it's low to begin with and I want the quicker turning in the tight stuff I typically use the WR for.
 
Picklito said:
If you have your Ohlins rebuilt at any point, replace the first compression shim with a 2-hole rather than 4-hole face shim. This will increase low speed compression damping and hold the rear of the bike up better in corners, but it only slightly increases high speed damping, which the shock needs as well, so it does not tend to add any harshness. You can see the shim in this photo, the one closest to the piston.
View attachment 80460

Some models also have an aluminum spacer in the shock as a travel/full extension limiter. If you remove it or use a slightly shorter one (again, at time of rebuild) and reset your sag from this new, higher extended length, they will also turn better. I like this mod on my WR because it's low to begin with and I want the quicker turning in the tight stuff I typically use the WR for.
Click to expand...

Thanks again! I am going to rebuild the shocks and this all makes sense.
 
Yes, it can really hurt if your 35+ y.o. shocks are toasted. Don't even mention full cosmetic resto's or rusty chrome. Yikes.

That's why, several years ago, I invested in a nitrogen bottle, a vacuum bleeder, and jumped in. I'd recommend learning how for anyone who's into bikes and doesn't have hundred dollar bills falling out of their wallet.

I have to say that it's pretty stinkin' easy as long as you apply the usual careful mechanical building techniques. I'm sure I've saved thousands by now, and I can have fresh shocks whenever I want. And I like to play with the valving, and do it frequently. Easy and inexpensive, once you're in the game.
 
Picklito said:
Yes, it can really hurt if your 35+ y.o. shocks are toasted. Don't even mention full cosmetic resto's or rusty chrome. Yikes.

That's why, several years ago, I invested in a nitrogen bottle, a vacuum bleeder, and jumped in. I'd recommend learning how for anyone who's into bikes and doesn't have hundred dollar bills falling out of their wallet.

I have to say that it's pretty stinkin' easy as long as you apply the usual careful mechanical building techniques. I'm sure I've saved thousands by now, and I can have fresh shocks whenever I want. And I like to play with the valving, and do it frequently. Easy and inexpensive, once you're in the game.
Click to expand...

Yes. I have done the same. I bought the DVD.
 
revalve kit is still like $150 for just the kit....no shims, oil, nitrogen, springs, whoops got a bent or pitted shaft, etc


The guys that rebuild deserve every penny as Ohlins parts are not cheap
 
Don't buy the kit to learn how. Get them disassembled and take a look. Thorough cleaning. Polish the O-ring land in the reservoir piston, and reassemble with new seal head and new Viton reservoir piston O-ring. Get the parts directly from OHLINS USA. Very reasonable. Refill with Maxima heavy shock oil. Nitrogen 150psi and go ride it to test the quality of your rebuild. Now you know how! If you need to go back in it will cost you pennies.
 
On my early twin shock 84 Frame I took a more radical approach and re welded the steering head making it close to what the single shock 84 frame is. I will say that my 84 frame probably turns a bit better than my 82. But since I went to all the time and effort of coarse I'm going say it works better.
 
Wow. Re-welding the steering stem is beyond my "weld safety" capabilities! I've considered lowering the seat triangle, and then adjusting fork and shock lengths to approximate this.
 
I have found no significant difference in offset between anything between 1982 and 1986 in my triple clamp collection. Do you actually have a distance difference recorded? My inspection was overlaying top clamps and comparing the distance between the stem and tube centers.
 
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