• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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82 500 small end spacers ??

silverstreakNZ

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Time for a new piston in the cr5.
Original mahle was ( tapered) and 27 between the bosses in the piston . Had spacers . And stock bearing 20x24x25 .
New wossner is 26mm between bosses . Small end is 22 mm wide .
Do I put a 25mm wide bearing in it and call it Jake . Does it need spacers to locate the rod or does the crank locate the rod . Do I have a problem with 83 piston and effectively 82 motor ?
Thanks all20170901_173353.jpg
 
@ Streak, i have a whole database on 500s of what works and what doesnt.
Will have to go dig and will post in next few days. This weekend was actually allocated to other rides.
Meantime plse measure up down play on conrod.
Also post pic of 22mm wide smallend, some really poor stuf out there.
Original had no spacers on rod nor smallend.
 
Thank you sir . Will update . Big end is ok for radial . Haven't measured but there is no detectable play / click/rattle to warrant measuring it .
How do you physically measure it ? Straight up n down with a dial indicator with the rod flopping around ? I know the dimension just not what method you actually use
 
Please on 80 % of torn down lower end rods I/we are finding some age pitting mostly age related. These are bikes that sit
and have moisture condensing etc in this area. Even tho most have an old oil patina.
If that much apart I would spend the money and time to inspect it. And put in bearing
Oh found pitting on pin and on rod.
 
Bearing on left is a disasterous cage design and will fail sooner than later.
Centre is original and hard to find. Some copies going around.
Right side is Wiseco which outperforms original.
 
Actual measurement and i run them in mahle and wiseco without washers/spacers.
In the past i used high quality thrust washers from holland and they didnt last 30hrs before splitting and destroying a piston and barrel. I then proceededto use these Wiseco bearings as is and they last te best of all options.
Happy hunting
 
If that bearing is used in a SeaDoo 760, do yourself a favor and order the OEM Bombardier part and dont use the Chinese part from Wiseco.
 
Cheers husky hamm .here's the small end at 22 mm wide . Is it possible this was oem for the 82.5 build ?
So in this build with a 26mm gap in the piston what do you suggest ? A nearly 26mm wide bearing and let the rod centre itself ?
24mm wide bearing and two spacers to centre it with some clearance ?
20170902_223200.jpg
 
I will retract my previous statement about spacers being fitted to this with the mahle when it fails . I believe what I thought were spacers were the rings left from either end of a bearing that looked like the one on the left and didn't last very long .
 
Speaking of SeaDoo, the stock Rotax wrist pin bearing for the 760 and all other two stroke Rotax SeaDoo engines do not have a cage, they are loose rollers with thrust washers. This greatly increases the bearing surface area because you can get more bearings in there. Remember, the only purpose of a cage for a bearing like this is to make it easier to install, not because it needs the cage after installation.
 
I thought I saw a shim on the big end of the rod within the crank cheek. My impression was that the rod is piston centered (shims required) and floating axially on the big end.
 
I took apart 430's in the past with no shims. The 430 had a wider needle bearing there isn't much room for spacers on the wrist pin. The 390 has those alloy shims that are smaller than the outside bearing diameter I believe. These washers on the 250's I worry about them blocking off the flow of two stroke.

There's my digital calipers that's MIA it's in NZ. Lol. I purchased another one. Mine is still missing. Lmao
 
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