'82 430WR MZB/Powerdynamo

[Kartwheel68]

Anyone have a picture of the base plate for their MZB/Powerdynamo ignition? I ordered one and everything fits, the base plate fits, the flywheel taper fits, the box says its for my bike and the instructions are for my bike, but the slots on the base plate are not long enough. At full advance the base plate stops at about 1.6-1.8mm BTDC.

Just for rough measurement I scribed the TDC and 2.0mm BTDC on the case, the red dot is quite a bit short of 2mm at full advance.

 

[justintendo]

too bad the inner stator isnt also slotted ala motoplat, that would likely give you enough adjustment. that backing plate really fills up the cavity. looking forward to hearing a report once its timed.
does this unit have a cdi that retards timing when starting then has a timing curve?

 

[Jens Ries]

I ordered the same ignition from Berlin for my 430. It s a czech vape. but I got a different plate. It was very easy to install and adjust. The spark is strong and the bike starts and runs well.

 

[grouty]

Are you using a woodruff key with the flywheel ? If not, just centre the backplate in the slots and fit the flywheel to suit at your rough BTDC timing. Final adjustment can be made using the slots.

Or am I missing something

 

[markt2]

Yes, I believe the Powerdynamo flywheel does not have a flywheel key so you install the flywheel where it needs to be.

 

[Kartwheel68]

Are you using a woodruff key with the flywheel ? If not, just centre the backplate in the slots and fit the flywheel to suit at your rough BTDC timing. Final adjustment can be made using the slots.

Or am I missing something

No, you are correct. Apparently they updated the base plates, the older systems are like what Jens has and mine is a newer type. The older system you set the rotor at TDC and like a Motoplat, you stuck a pin through the rotor to the stator and moved the stator back to your BTDC timing point. This one you set like a PVL, you put the stator in the middle of the slots, you set the base timing with the rotor and fine tune from there with the slots in the stator. I was just thrown off for a while because I was expecting the older OEM style backing plate, but once I realized what I had I felt kind of dumb since I have done many PVLs.

 

[Jens Ries]

But You can dial the Flywheel in correct position, because the VAPE don t use a wedge to fix the flywheel at the crankshaft!

 

[Kartwheel68]

Yes, all you do is set the timing with the rotor instead of the stator like on a Motoplat/SEM.

 

[Bodger]

well I sure are cornfused...please keep posting the progress here..how much, where, etc would be good..

people I think need to also mention lapping the flywheel to the crankshaft for a proper taper fit, and in another spot someone mentioned torqueing the flywheel nut three times 'as mentioned in the instructions'.

 

[Bodger]

One user here referred to UK-Motoplat, and thank you for that, Cafe Husky users to the rescue again!

UK Motoplat- Bradford Ignitions

http://www.uk-motoplat.com/home.html

The email is

sales-web@uk-motoplat.com

I asked what might be the costs for rewinding the coil and stator as necessary.

The coil lead is wasted as well.

Steven got right back to me with some price ranges, shipping USPS back and forth sounds like 50 eng. pounds, replacing the coil lead 25 , rewinding stator and coils up to 200ish eng pounds depending on how good or bad they test.

As my engine is currently not running all I have are resistance tests to do..pending that and moving ....

Costs may be near the cost of the cheapest replacement ignition I have seen for replacing the Motoplat Mini 6 in my 86 400 LC Enduro.

Decisions, decisions.

Maybe just get the coil fixed for now if the resistance tests prove ok.
And don't say resistance is futile...I am well aware of that!

 

[darren7878]

Bodger - Check out the Electrex systems. Many of us in the UK have replaced our old systems with these...............

 

[Eric The Leg]

I have one of these on my 86.The flywheel is not keyed.

to get timing right, I mounted the plate with the screws in the center of the slot, then used a simple depth gage to find 2 MM prior to top dead center, and mounted my flywheel with the arrow at spark and the piston at 2 mm prior to top dead center. With the magnets, and tendency of the flywheel to spin a little bit while tightening the flywheel nut, this is actually a lot harder than it sounds. Be persistent.

The depth gage trick got me close enough to be able to start the bike and run it around a little bit to make sure my flywheel was seated, then give a good final cinch on the flywheel nut and get out your dial indicator for the final timing adjustment.

 

[Eric The Leg]

Oh, nevermind, I see you solved your own problem back at post #6.
Well, I'll leave my post in there in case someone else with the same problem finds this thread.

 

[Bodger]

Oh, nevermind, I see you solved your own problem back at post #6.
Well, I'll leave my post in there in case someone else with the same problem finds this thread.

no eric, that's good, thanks.

this stuff is tricky, and how one person describes something may click with one reader and not another, having a couple of descriptions of something like this helps a lot IMO.

and Darren, thanks for the recommendation of the Electrex system.
I'll ask Herself for my allowance and see...