• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

8 hr oil change anyone? 2010 TE 250

Jimmy250

Husqvarna
AA Class
What a day, its still really cold here in NJ so I have been trying to get bike ready for the warm weather riding season! So just had suspension totally re worked ( more on that later). So now I figure its time for routine oil /filter change. Well the head on the drain plug totally stripped and rounded off! on the 2010 te 250 there is no room for error or tools for that matter! After further mauling it with every tool I own, My Neighbor friend who son races moto came down to help, and brought some of his tools as well,with no avail, it was time to weld! He welded a nut to the bolt and bingo a big wrench and we finally broke it loose! So thanks and handshakes and I owe him one! but then the filter cover bolts came out with the threads attached so it was another call back to Tommy to beg for heli coil kit, which he had and he came down once again to save me! A day and night to remember, just thought I would share in case it happens to anyone else out there! BTW ordered a new aluminum plug from Zip Ty! They said its common! Thx for reading JC
 
No thats the funny thing I just used an open end wrench. So I remember when I did it, I dont believe I cranked on it. lol
 
First, yes it is a tight fit to that drain plug but there is enough room to do the job. Next, a box end wrench will fit on my drain plug as well as an open end wrench. This is the case when you need a quality tool and NOT a el-cheapo brand tool that allows the tool jaws to slip or expand on the drain plug.

--

The wrench of choice must be set on the drain plug head squarely and correctly. The single push or pull action that will loosen that drain plug must be correct or you, you (being the operator of the wrench), you will strip that drain plug nut head, same as as any other nut or bolt head. Another clue for the future -- ALUMN is softer material than steel.

Good luck on the future ...

PS -- Someone overtightened the oil filter housing bolts ... those are small, fine threaded bolts ..Maybe not the best choice but all ya gotta do is apply some of the rubber type gasket maker stuff to the bolt threads ( to stop any leaks) and use a small 8mm wrench to tighten them. Be easy on these or you get the results you stated above.
 
First, yes it is a tight fit to that drain plug but there is enough room to do the job. Next, a box end wrench will fit on my drain plug as well as an open end wrench. This is the case when you need a quality tool and NOT a el-cheapo brand tool that allows the tool jaws to slip or expand on the drain plug.

--

The wrench of choice must be set on the drain plug head squarely and correctly. The single push or pull action that will loosen that drain plug must be correct or you, you (being the operator of the wrench), you will strip that drain plug nut head, same as as any other nut or bolt head. Another clue for the future -- ALUMN is softer material than steel.

Good luck on the future ...

PS -- Someone over tightened the oil filter housing bolts ... those are small, fine threaded bolts ..Maybe not the best choice but all ya gotta do is apply some of the rubber type gasket maker stuff to the bolt threads ( to stop any leaks) and use a small 8mm wrench to tighten them. Be easy on these or you get the results you stated above.

Funny I was talking it over with a friend, I am the second owner and this was my second oil change on this bike besides the dealer prep, I did notice the first time I did the oil change these bolts were on there way out! The oil filter cover had been over tightened before me and I knew they would need the heli coil, and The drain bolt I agree with your thoughts, I am super anal about my bikes and my tools, so I agree! Thx for the input always appreciated!
 
What a day, its still really cold here in NJ so I have been trying to get bike ready for the warm weather riding season! So just had suspension totally re worked ( more on that later). So now I figure its time for routine oil /filter change. Well the head on the drain plug totally stripped and rounded off! on the 2010 te 250 there is no room for error or tools for that matter! After further mauling it with every tool I own, My Neighbor friend who son races moto came down to help, and brought some of his tools as well,with no avail, it was time to weld! He welded a nut to the bolt and bingo a big wrench and we finally broke it loose! So thanks and handshakes and I owe him one! but then the filter cover bolts came out with the threads attached so it was another call back to Tommy to beg for heli coil kit, which he had and he came down once again to save me! A day and night to remember, just thought I would share in case it happens to anyone else out there! BTW ordered a new aluminum plug from Zip Ty! They said its common! Thx for reading JC


Did you confuse your lefty looseys and righty tighties?:banghead:
 
Cool and bike work is a little fragile at times with the materials used (ESP on engine cases) to keep weight down as compared to cars and trucks and farm equipment. I almost always spray most nuts and bolts with WD40 before I tighten them back up on my bikes. Just a little insurance for the future maintenance work.

--FYI
That o-ring on the filter housing leaks on my bikes so I use the liquid gasket stuff for that leak .. Be careful if you go this route to not use too much gasket stuff as it can get into the oil and maybe clog something up inside the engine.
 
Well Guys after waiting a week and a day for the Zip -Ty Aluminum deeper shoulder drain plug it finally came, just a few short hrs before I had to go to the dealer Town And Country( Love those Guys) so I said you have any stock Drain Bolts as a spare, $7 later and Thank God I had it! The Zip-Ty would not thread in! The Stock bolt slid right in and snugged right up! Waiting on a call back from Zip -Ty they are checking to see if they got a bad batch of threads.
 
All of the smaller bolts are subject to stripping - especially the ones that hold the cam/rocker covers on! Get a good quality torque wrench for those when you get to that point and don't trust the old "calibrated arm" technique. Don't ask me how I know. :lol:
 
All of the smaller bolts are subject to stripping - especially the ones that hold the cam/rocker covers on! Get a good quality torque wrench for those when you get to that point and don't trust the old "calibrated arm" technique. Don't ask me how I know. :lol:


yep and be really careful to not overtighten the axle pinch bolts as well. Seen many of those stripped. We all love and scream for light bikes and we get small bolts in light (soft) materials.
 
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