Randyhowell713
Husqvarna
A Class
Is there a better kicker for this beast
-
Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
74 400 Kicker
- Thread starter Randyhowell713
- Start date
Husqvarna
stormer254
Husqvarna
AA Class
I don't think so, the only other left hand kick start that I am aware of with the same splines is off the Rotax 2st as used by CanAm etc. and they are rarer than Rocking Horse Droppings!!
Crashaholic
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I've never heard of another lever fitting your spline shaft while clearing the exhaust. If the problem is not enough kick lever travel to spin the motor then the only advice I can offer is to make sure the kick lever is properly adjusted on the spline. You should have engagement of the kick mechanism after about an inch of lever travel once the piston has been brought to top dead center.
If the lever travel is more than an inch you may want to try moving it one spline to the left. After doing this its a good idea to check for to early engagement by listening for a high speed clicking sound after starting the engine. If you hear such a sound shut it down immediately and move the lever back one spline to the right.
If the lever travel is more than an inch you may want to try moving it one spline to the left. After doing this its a good idea to check for to early engagement by listening for a high speed clicking sound after starting the engine. If you hear such a sound shut it down immediately and move the lever back one spline to the right.
The attached picture from Husky Newsletter #33 shows both the 72 thru 76 and 77-78 levers. The note suggests that riders would bend their early levers to match the later 'dog-leg' style.
The later lever fits the earlier splined shaft, but may dig into the clutch cover a bit.
The later lever fits the earlier splined shaft, but may dig into the clutch cover a bit.
Crashaholic
Husqvarna
Pro Class
The lever pictured on the right was common on a couple 76 models and most 77 models, may be even later. I do know its to long for use on the pre 75 bikes as it hits the exhaust pipe. Never tried bending the stock one picture on the left. It would have be heated to the point of being like butter and cooled properly to make sure it didn't become brittle. Keep in mind that when being used there would be a lot of stress at the bend.
If you bend a stock lever let me know how it works on the 74 400.
If you bend a stock lever let me know how it works on the 74 400.
markt2
Husqvarna
AA Class
My new 1976 250CR came with the type on the right... brochure photos from 1976 show that "dog leg" style with the "traditional" side pipe.
The problem with the type on the right, at least on the Mag engines, is that it hits the shifter at full down stroke and quickly damages the bushing/seal and possibly cover... back in late 1977 Malcolm Smith's got me a 1978 "swing out" type which works great and stopped the shifter leak issue... can be hard to find these days but it's what I use.
The 1978 "swing out" type is great but might not clear the older style traditional side pipe? (My 250CR's are late 76 with the Ohlin-designed "snake pipe")
The problem with the type on the right, at least on the Mag engines, is that it hits the shifter at full down stroke and quickly damages the bushing/seal and possibly cover... back in late 1977 Malcolm Smith's got me a 1978 "swing out" type which works great and stopped the shifter leak issue... can be hard to find these days but it's what I use.
The 1978 "swing out" type is great but might not clear the older style traditional side pipe? (My 250CR's are late 76 with the Ohlin-designed "snake pipe")
Crashaholic
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I wasn't aware this style kick lever would fit the spline shaft on the pre 75 engines. To bad the exhaust pipe clearance on the per 75 Huskys is an issue. Also looks like the spline clamp would be a close fit and the pivot knuckle may hit the older per 75 side case when fully rotated.
stormer254
Husqvarna
AA Class
It is an unfortunate fact that the Husky kick start position and operation are s##t, and despite several different case styles they never got round to developing a decent kicker. Your best bet for easy starting is a good ignition, good carburation and practice, practice, practice, oh and maybe a crate or something to stand on!
I have a 75 wr 250. Starting was a pain until I put a more modern pipe on. I know it is more money but...if your pipe is very good...save it. The more modern pipe makes kicker easier to get a foot on. Also a big plus is the bike runs much better. The new pipe is lighter, and my perfect stock exhaust is in a safe place in my shop. I can get my foot on the kicker now.