• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

610TC cam chain replace question - Old model.

? It's not like Iam asking for a manual. I have a manual it does not say how to get it of.
 
Ohh man thanks! (I had another 200+ pages manual, it did not say anything about it.) Do you know how it looks?
An OEM it properly quite expensive, and I don't know where to get it :-)

Is there another word for it, then: "puller 1519805" ? I don't know where to buy it, or what to call it.. :-)

And when I finally get it of, then when I need to get it on again, do I just heat it up, and gently knock it on again? :-)
 
I found a cheap puller to do the job, just make sure the jaws are not to thick where they go behind the gear.
 
Hi
Doing the exact same thing to my 97 610.....it does just pull off, but you will need a pulley draw or something similar, like these, cheap and carefull and done the job.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-4-inch-3-jaw-gear-puller-cht607

It's tappered....... Mine took some force to shift it.(it will go, but with bit of a "crack"..... Mind the spring behind it)
One of The manuals I have says to heat it up to 100 c degrees when refitting it........ So you can I imagine it's on there pretty good.........
Hope this helps
Dave


20150323_194549.jpg

IMG_1926.JPGIMG_1924.JPG
 
Thanks a ton, that manual David is that a paper one or a .pdf? :-)

And David could I get you to do me a favor:
I have maybe forgotten the sequence the rings should go on, on the clutch. Could you take a picture from the side?

The bendable metal ring which goes on the clutch as the second last thing, one should not reuse that right? or? :-)

How many KM or hours did you get on your chain?
How many clicks out was the tensioner?
At how many clicks out does the manual say, that the chain should be changed?
(My manual does not say anything about "clicks out" - It only states how long the chain must max stretch.
20 links:
Standard: 155,5 mm / 6,12 in
Wear limit: 158 mm / 6,22 in

Agian, thanks a ton :-)
 
hi
i think this is what you want to see?
i have bought new clutch plates but this is how they came out......
20150324_191041.jpg

the clutch tab washer i got from (i think you are refering to)

http://www.motosupplies.com/product/clutch-tab-washer/

i wouldnt use the old one as the metal could fracture where you flatten it out and then rebend it back up.
i have PDF service manuals for 98-2000 and also parts manual, which helps alot with the layout of parts
if you want them i will look at trying to put them on a file share site or could email them direct. let me know
i am doing a complete engine rebuild on my bike, bearings, conrod,new piston cylinder rebored and nikasill plated, re seating valves and cam followers etc......really going to town on it....
so basically didnt take much notice of the timing chain condition or tensioner position as this was always on the list of parts for me to change whilst doing my rebuild, sorry.
my bike had 16k miles on it, but looking at the condition of the conrod and bearings, i am glad i have stripped it.(can post pictures if you are interested)
good luck with yours
cheers
dave
 
Thanks, but no, the sequence of the things which should go on the rod where the "bendable metal ring / clutch-tab-washer/ also goes on. That sequence I dont remember :-) (The small pieces "within the clutch" it that makes sense)

How much NM should the clutch be tightend with?

Would like a copy of that 98-2000 manual :-)

Sund555@gmail.com
Or upload it somewhere if thats easier for you.

Thanks a lot!
 
The parts Manual will show you what you are looking for and the configuration I think.....
I have just sent that to your email, let me know if you got it ok.
The other two manuals are both over 20mb so will try and put them on some kind of file share site and let you know.
All torque settings /values are in the service manuals.
Cheers
Dave.
 
Yeah they were. Made a note, maybe some day, someone could use this:

Upper cam chain sprocket, 2 nuts: 25 nm With Loctite 242 or 243
The sprocket which were taken of with the puller, should be warmed to 100 degress celcius. Put spring and sprocket on, big nut 90 NM
Waterpump small nut at impeller 8 mm. 4,8-5.2 NM

Cylinder head cover bolts 9 NM CRISS-CROSS tighten. Remember new liquid gasket.

Clutch spring screws 10 nm
The screw fixing the clutch springs 5 NM
Drive gear on crankshaft 90 NM
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top