• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

610 battery wiring help

F

Flynn

Husqvarna
A Class
Quick question, finished a cam chain job on my '01 610 so I had to remove the battery box. Now when I hook up the battery I am getting precisely zero, not a sausage. Everything is totally dead, not even a spark from the terminals, like the circuit isn't complete.

What actually prompted me to undertake the cam chain job was that the ignition coil failed so I had ran the battery flat trying to start it, then thrown it in the shed for about a month before charging it with a regular car charger. This may or may not have had an effect on the battery.

The charger is a basic one so it indicates with a light whether the battery has charged or not and the light shone brightly when I hooked it up to test it, so I think it's okay, I just need to dig my multimeter out of the shed to confirm.

Just to rule out the wiring can someone confirm that this is correct:

This starter relay only has one fuse in it, the other is a blank slot for a spare.
100_1750.JPG
The battery positive goes to the terminal marked "M" and the starter wire goes to the terminal marked "B".
100_1754.JPG
There is a small neutral wire as well as the main negative from the battery:
100_1752.JPG

That is all the wiring I can see and according to my understanding of the wiring diagram it is all correct. I figured this post will be useful for the images even if no one can help me with my particular issue.
 
Had another little play around today. Here's what I have found out. The battery is fine, it turns the starter faster than ever when I connected it directly to the starter. The 'remote control electric start switch' or starter relay as it is more commonly known is fully functional. Initially I thought it was broken because on the 'B' terminal, there was no voltage. Then I jumped the two pins which made it click and turn the starter so obviously that should only have a voltage when it needs to activate the starter.

From the second pair of pins on the starter switch, one goes to the starter motor button and one goes to the emergency cut out switch. What I want to know is, why don't I have any electrics whatsoever?

I tried applying 12v directly to the socket for the dash power but got nothing. I know this pic shows the plug but it is the socket behind that that I applied 12v to.


100_1758.JPG


When I install the battery and flick the ignition on I am not getting anything at all. Anyone know if the starter switch could cause these symptoms? Apart from that the only electrical stuff I have removed is the ignition coil and replaced it with a new one. Everything is in place but no banana. A real head scratcher.

Here is the wiring diagram if anyone can help:
husqvarna electrical diagram 1.png
The only things I have not specifically found are the clutch switch and neutral warning light and neutral switch. Of those, the only one I might have disturbed was the clutch switch since I took the clutch cable off to do the cam chain. From the diagram I can see that it goes to earth, via what I don't know. Also the above image just details the starting system, does the current go from the regulator and rectifier to the rest of the electrical system from there?
 
Hmm, can't edit the post. Anyway what I was gonna ask was which wire goes from the battery to the ignition switch? When you thumb the starter it sends 12v to the starter relay which makes the starter circuit live. But the ignition has to be on in the first place for that to work. So what am I missing?
 
Flynn said:
Hmm, can't edit the post. Anyway what I was gonna ask was which wire goes from the battery to the ignition switch? When you thumb the starter it sends 12v to the starter relay which makes the starter circuit live. But the ignition has to be on in the first place for that to work. So what am I missing?
Click to expand...
Mate it sounds like you may have missed connecting a wire to the battery. If not check all your fuses just to be sure.
 
Okay I believe it was a blown starter relay, when I apply power to the plug that goes into the relay I get all functionality. It's this plug that supplies the ignition:
100_1775.JPG
Not the other one above the cylinder head.
 
Turns out I had it wired the wrong way around. I thought the manual was denoting that the "1" meant the "M" terminal and "2" meant the "B" terminal. The power source for the ignition and voltage regulator is taken off that extra ring connector over the "B" terminal.

Also, "B" is the initial for battery and "M" is the initial for motor, as in starter motor. I just assumed they were initials for something in Italian, which although different would probably still have been a variant of the word battery like "batteria" or some such:D

Well I wasted £10 on a new relay which could have filled the tank, as well as bus fairs to and from where the bike is which is not my home address.

Oh yeah and I could have had it on the road two weeks ago. If only I realised what the manual was saying, that was denoting the switching process within the relay, not which wires go where on the terminal.
 
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