• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

511 issues with high idle while downshifting

Tom H

Tom H

Husqvarna
B Class
Guys, help needed! I've searched the forums and can't find any answers.

The first issue is that when I downshift while riding as if I am coming to a stop or going into a first gear corner, the bike doesn't drop revs and idles high. So if I am riding along having a great time and then pull the clutch in, bang it down two gears and let the clutch out while braking. When I let the clutch back out it idles much higher than it should, even with no throttle. It even happens when I get to traffic lights - put it in first while slowing for the traffic lights, it sits high in the revs. Pull the clutch in to coast up and it still idles high!

There are only two ways I have found to stop it. If it is in first and idling high (if you were going round a corner say) and then you can use the brakes to almost force it to idle low - and then it just drops below this strange idle speed and acts normally again. The other way is if you have the clutch pulled in (sitting at the lights) and its idling high, you can just let the clutch in and out quickly so it grabs a little bit - then it drops down again like normal.

I have a PCV if that is related? It did it very rarely after I had the PCV and a dyno done but I didn't pay much attention. Now it does it almost all the time.

The other issue that might be related is a clutch slip issue. I posted about it awhile ago. I go away a lot for work (Army) and was having some clutch slip issues so ordered some new plates for when I got back. I was doing a few wheelies before I left and the oil level got quite low which I thought contributed to it. Anyway, I'm still getting clutch slip, even after changing the plates. I put 10W 40 in, so I'll get some Mobil 0W 40 tomorrow and see if that solves it.

Could these be related?? What on earth is wrong with it??
 
Great thanks! Ill try it tomorrow - and I'll also change the oil and let you know how I go!
 
I didn't realize there was actually a thread for this and I have been speaking to you in pm's on the issue. Maybe we can continue here in hope it may help others.
The DDS clutch on the 449 is very strong and I have never seen one start slipping, not even when racing, but nothing is completely bullet proof, especially when you run them at low oil levels. I have a few questions. When you replaced your plates, did you replace both metal and fiber plates? And when does the clutch appear to slip? From take off or during acceleration or climbing at high rpm's?
 
One of the things I've been most impressed with on the 511/449's is the clutch. I've not been very easy on mine
and it has been about as durable a clutch as I've ever used.
I know adjustments can be made with the PCV software if you know how to do all that. I don't but found a mechanic
who does and with a PCV it's important to get it right.
 
Tom's issue is a mechanical one I'm afraid. He has either lost his main clutch spring, his clutch pack height is off or his TL is slipping.
 
It's slips only under hard throttle. So if I am cruising along at a steady speed and crack the throttle it slips and the revs fly up. Or say I accelerate hard out of a corner. But not from standing but maybe because I'm not accelerating too hard.

It feels like if I ask for too much torque it slips.

Replaced both fibre and steel plates.
 
Tom H said:
It's slips only under hard throttle. So if I am cruising along at a steady speed and crack the throttle it slips and the revs fly up. Or say I accelerate hard out of a corner.
It feels like if I ask for too much torque it slips.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately that sounds exactly like a TL issue. I have a jig that I use to test the torque limiters, but I believe I am a long way away from you and by the time you paid the shipping to get it to me, you could of bought another. The torque limiter is a one piece unit. You will have to pull the primary and secondary clutch cover and the entire clutch basket to remove it and replace it.

$(KGrHqR,!ioE9eOwfmnUBP,6gT04Cw~~60_12.JPG
$(KGrHqV,!mEE9RWY8,cKBP,6gV),3Q~~60_12.JPG

torquelimiters.jpg
 
Exciting times. I have moderate mechanical skills - will I be able to do this myself? Do I need any special tools?

At least I have brand new church plates now lol
 
Look on the bright side, you caught it before it flew apart and cost you a $2000 repair bill. :excuseme:
 
Welcome to AUS OE pricing... take the US price and double, or sometimes triple it...

Priced up TC cams many moons ago, $500 from the US, or $1200 here...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top