• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

50mm Marzocchi's Leaking On Top?

CagivaWMX

Husqvarna
AA Class
On my 09 TC 450 last weekend the forks were leaking on the top. Not very much, but each time I came in one would be wet with a tiny film of fluid. Has anyone else experienced this.....what was the fix? I assume it's somehow leaking around the adjuster screw?

Not really sure what's inside....I haven't ever had these apart.
 
I had installed fast bleeders on mine and one of the rubber O-rings wasn't seated right and this happened to me too. Check or just replace the O-ring on bleeder and see if that's it.
 
TC' use twin chamber. Theirs an o ring at the bleeder as 1lunger suggests and another oring at the cap itself.
 
TC' use twin chamber. Theirs an o ring at the bleeder as 1lunger suggests and another oring at the cap itself.

If it's the O-ring on the inner chamber cap, you won't find one at a dealer. I called marzocchi, and you have to buy the whole inner chamber cap to get one. Instead, the dude was super helpful. He busted out his calipers, found a cap laying around, and gave me the o-ring dimensions. I bought a bag of 100 (smallest I could find anywhere)....

If you end up needing an o-ring, let me know. I send one out in an envelope.
 
I have a 09 510TXC with the 50zokes TC, mine leaked onced, the compression adjuster backed off a touch, turned it in and no more problem,
unlike the Jap TC's the top clamp doesnt apply enough pressure through the top of the fork tube to secure the compression adjuster.
try to avoid apply too much torque to the red adjuster though, as this can cause the fork to be diffecult to service at a later date.
If you do service them buy the SKF seals they make a big difference in performance with the reduction in sticktion on these forks.
 
My red cap backed off a couple times also, once it backed off enough to leak a bit. If I remember correctly the Torque spec is 40 Ft lbs.

If it is leaking out of the compression adjuster like Blakes bike did sounds like he has the market cornered on o-rings. :D

Here is how mine looked when it backed off the first time.
554950615_fuokz-M.jpg


Supposed to look like this...
554950643_9s66K-M.jpg


Later,
 
My red cap backed off a couple times also, once it backed off enough to leak a bit. If I remember correctly the Torque spec is 40 Ft lbs.



Later,


And just to clarify a little, I would think you would have to expose the inner chamber to secure this cap to 40 ft. lbs... Otherwise, the inner chamber, and cap, will just spin 'round and 'round while not tightening. You may get the sensation something is stripped, when this is not really the case...
 
I couldn't get mine to tighten up with just a wrench, like Blake pointed out. It came loose a couple times until I pulled the bars and hit it with my 3/8" electric impact. That was the reccomended method from Ron at Marzocci.

Later,
 
My red cap backed off a couple times also, once it backed off enough to leak a bit. If I remember correctly the Torque spec is 40 Ft lbs.

If it is leaking out of the compression adjuster like Blakes bike did sounds like he has the market cornered on o-rings. :D

Here is how mine looked when it backed off the first time.
554950615_fuokz-M.jpg


Supposed to look like this...
554950643_9s66K-M.jpg


Later,

Sorry to hijack this thread, but I need to change my fork seals and it says I need a "4mm open-ended spanner to remove the lock cap from the fork leg".

Could someone please explain how the hell I do this and where the spanner goes? It makes no sense.


Capture by ibert1, on Flickr

Thanks
 
Could someone please explain how the hell I do this and where the snapper goes? It makes no sense.


Thanks


The spanner wrench goes in the top cap with the round and oblong holes all around it. One of the holes is filled with a rubber cap that has your fork bleeders under it. Don't stick the spanner in that hole!

I called a husky dealer, and they know of a tool for this off the shelf, and said they have an adjustable one from an auto parts store, or something like that...

JMetteer said the one that came with his angle grinder fit like a glove, but I didn't get that lucky!


I ended up making my own out of a crescent wrench
4a7236f7.jpg
 
Sorry to hijack this thread, but I need to change my fork seals and it says I need a "4mm open-ended spanner to remove the lock cap from the fork leg".

Could someone please explain how the hell I do this and where the snapper goes? It makes no sense.

Thanks

Race tech makes the "correct tool"...
TMPS 01 PIN SPANNER 4.0 & 4.5mm $59.99

It looks like this.
TMPS_2_clean_850.jpg


Like Blake said my grinder tool works just fine, and his crescent wrench tool is totally gangsta!

476389109_rrnsY-M.jpg


Later,
 
Sorry to hijack this thread, but I need to change my fork seals and it says I need a "4mm open-ended spanner to remove the lock cap from the fork leg".

Could someone please explain how the hell I do this and where the snapper goes? It makes no sense.




Thanks


I have a TE but they came with the twin chamber forks like those said here. I had a lot of trouble with the (lower stanchion) seals not sealing. Had butloads of oil leaking after very few hours. Make sure you do the inner spring up nice and tight! I slightly shortened the spring on the external dust seal also.
 
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