• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

500 XC Lectron adjustment

S

subarumy98

Husqvarna
AA Class
Raced with the Lectron properly for the last 2 days.

Observations:
Easy start with choke from cold.
Very snappy on the bottom end.
There's a "spluttery miss" at the end of 4th up our long uphill on the track.
Straight after a race, can only restart with the choke.

I tried 1/4 turn in on the Powerjet which did improve the splutter on top, but not perfect.

Comments and suggestions please
 
I have found similar to you. I had to go 1/2 turn richer from stock for my 78 390WR. I run a set of Boysen reeds. I never could get the jetting right with the Mikuni. Have a look at the video I posted.
Starting from cold was a one or two kick with the choke on. If stalled when hot it took a half hearted prod to make it fire up again. I never really got a chance to wind it open as the endure circuit was a tad "tight".
I did try a 1/4 turn richer during the day just to see what difference it made. It was a bit four strokey off the bottom, but pulled well after that. I will go back that 1/4 turn and see what it is like when wound up.
I did find that the tick over was a wee bit erratic when warm. If I gave it 10 seconds it would settle.

It sounds like you need to change the power jet setting.

All in all, worth every penny. I will buy another for the 390 Auto when it's done, and I am tempted to try one on the tuned 81 KLX250 4 stroke I have.
I am that impressed.
 
what about a 510 four stroke, will Lectron suit that engine, the dellorto is pretty worn out...
 
suprize said:
what about a 510 four stroke, will Lectron suit that engine, the dellorto is pretty worn out...
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Yes. These carbs have worked well on everything from minis to top fuel Harley hill climbers to snowmobiles. Very configurable to most any installation. Brings the same benefits in every install, better response, atomization, MPG, ease of use, flexibility to different environments and elevations, etc.
 
no doubt your the seller!! the bike runs rich at low to mid throttle settings and idles roughly. I suspect the needle is worn around these settings from vibrating at constant throttle settings as it was a road runner (last bike you would run on the road) the slide has some pretty interesting marks on it as well so I think uts basically passed its use by date....I will get a mirror and look into it.. thanks
 
suprize said:
no doubt your the seller!!
Click to expand...

:D Never tried to hide that.

suprize said:
the bike runs rich at low to mid throttle settings and idles roughly. I suspect the needle is worn around these settings from vibrating at constant throttle settings as it was a road runner (last bike you would run on the road) the slide has some pretty interesting marks on it as well so I think uts basically passed its use by date....I will get a mirror and look into it.. thanks
Click to expand...

My 83 XC500 carb was like that. Slide was warn and needle was too. By the time you replaced all that you can buy a new carb.
 
No, in is leaner (closing it), out is richer (opening it). 1/4 turns are good. enough but not to much.
 
To adjust the meter rod, the manual says turn it, then push and re-centre to ensure the flat portion faces the engine.

When I simply try and turn it, I have no adjustment available.
I can push in the meter rod, then it will turn freely.
You can feel the recess that needs to line up as you release the meter rod.

What am I missing here ?
 
If you are adjusting the metering rod you need to protect it from damage by using a piece of rag or similar. Use a pair of pliers to turn it in or out depending on what you want to do (DO NOT press it in at this stage). By turning the rod, the flat on it will not be facing the engine. Now you lift it up and turn it so it does. Make sure it then drops down into it's internal slot (you can feel this).

The power jet is on the top of the carb, and, as Kelly said earlier, that is turned out to richen using a screw driver.
 
subarumy98 said:
To adjust the meter rod, the manual says turn it, then push and re-centre to ensure the flat portion faces the engine.

When I simply try and turn it, I have no adjustment available.
I can push in the meter rod, then it will turn freely.
You can feel the recess that needs to line up as you release the meter rod.

What am I missing here ?
Click to expand...


When you screw it in and out you are adjusting it. Then you push it up into the slide and reindex it so the flat part is facing the motor.

read the instructions and understand it, it is very simple once you get the idea.

http://www.lectronfuelsystems.com/docs/Tuning_Instr.pdf
 
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