• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc 50 Marzocchi - service

spud1968

spud1968

Husqvarna
AA Class
I picked up my 2009 wr125 today for a very good price, but it needs work. The forks externally look great but are leaking and the rebound and compression adjusters are making no difference to how the forks work. I suspect they've been apart but whats happened i don't know. Having searched on this website on how to strip, service these forks can someone help with any photos and the strip down procedure along with any tools i will need to do this job ,and any helpful tips?
 
As far as tips I used 10w and 5w and the 5w worked better. I also lowered the oil level to 130mm which helped for riding in the woods. The springs on the 125s are pretty soft (4.2 I think) but the 250 springs (4.5) are pretty close for a 190 lb rider. The biggest help was to clean/remove the hard assembly grease that was packed around the valving. If someone has already been in your forks there should not be any of that but you never know. The open chamber 50mm forks are about as simple as they come, the only special tool I bought was the Motion Pro seal driver. I made an oil level tool with a syringe from the feed store a small metal rod, two zip ties and a piece of clear fuel line. (less than $10 invested)
 
This article has been a great help to us. The job is actually very easy, which is great because these forks leak all the time!
 
Yes, the bleeding of the inner chamber is MUCH different than the KYB or Showas Follow Xcuvator's link..
 
lankydoug said:
The link says it's for the TC450. Which one does the WR125 have? The 09 WR250 is open chamber. If the dual chamber 50mm Zokes are way better maybe I'll look for a set to swap for my opens. The Halls parts catalog show thesehttps://www.halls-cycles.com/Catalog/PDF/Husqvarna%20.PDFs/2009/2009-wr-cr%20125.pdf
Click to expand...


I was looking for open chambers for a while... I like them better for the woods riding I do, but just dumped a bunch of cashola into my closed chamber forks.....

The 09wr125 by the book should have come with open chambers, but every one I have seen came with the closed chamber 50mm zokes... The inner chamber is very different in these forks over the ones in the video above. I watched that video when servicing my Showa's on my CRF450, and it was a huge help. Again, however, there is a very different bleeding process for the CC zokes...
 
It turns out that Blake is one of the in house Zokes CC fork gurus. So if you get into it and have any questions.... you are in the right place:thumbsup:

As a side note, I would be interested in talking to someone about trading my CC forks for some open chamber.
 
Blakelpd5 said:
I was looking for open chambers for a while... I like them better for the woods riding I do, but just dumped a bunch of cashola into my closed chamber forks.....

The 09wr125 by the book should have come with open chambers, but every one I have seen came with the closed chamber 50mm zokes... The inner chamber is very different in these forks over the ones in the video above. I watched that video when servicing my Showa's on my CRF450, and it was a huge help. Again, however, there is a very different bleeding process for the CC zokes...
Click to expand...
Did you come up with some killer stacks? Or what all was done?
 
What would i do with out all you helpful lads...lol. quick update the left fork cap internally was not connected to the damper rode, which is not good! Cleaned everything and i did use the old seals and bushes having a 130mm air gap. Next up will be he rear linkage and im going to check the . The bike idles has no bottom or mid power. Im missing i suspect a rubber seal which goes between the expsnsion pipe and muffler. I need to check the muffler packing and can anyone tell me how to check the powervalve is setup correctly this bike is so gutless i reckon a 50cc moped as more mid and bottom end power!......im not liking this bike worst thing ive ever bought i hope im wrong
 
spud1968 said:
What would i do with out all you helpful lads...lol. quick update the left fork cap internally was not connected to the damper rode, which is not good! Cleaned everything and i did use the old seals and bushes having a 130mm air gap. Next up will be he rear linkage and im going to check the . The bike idles has no bottom or mid power. Im missing i suspect a rubber seal which goes between the expsnsion pipe and muffler. I need to check the muffler packing and can anyone tell me how to check the powervalve is setup correctly this bike is so gutless i reckon a 50cc moped as more mid and bottom end power!......im not liking this bike worst thing ive ever bought i hope im wrong
Click to expand...
From the way you describe what you are doing it almost sounds like you have open chamber forks. Are your fork caps one piece or two? The closed chamber caps are two piece with a spiffy red center hex head plug looking thing that is actually your compression valve. The reason I ask is that for one thing, it would be hard to measure your airgap on a CC fork. Oil volume is normally measured by the number of CCs added rather than remaining airspace.
 
Xcuvator said:
It turns out that Blake is one of the in house Zokes CC fork gurus. So if you get into it and have any questions.... you are in the right place:thumbsup:

As a side note, I would be interested in talking to someone about trading my CC forks for some open chamber.
Click to expand...

OC work great in the gnarly stuff... I don't jump more than 5' vertical, so having MX forks doesn't do much for me.

Thanks for the compliment, but I wouldn't consider myself a guru. Everything I learned about these forks came from CafeHusky, and JMetteer. I haven't done any modifying to any shims or anything. I've just serviced them (about 10 times), and replaced a few parts here and there...
 
Which fork do you have? Pic 1 or pic 2?

IMAG0008.jpg


IMAG0007.jpg


Ignore the green slime. It's a NW thing.....
 
My 2011 WR150 has open chamber forks that work quite well. I weigh about 190lbs and found the stock .42kg fork springs way too heavy. I ended up with .40kg. If I weighed 20lbs less I would need .38kg. I did raise my oil level to 110mm with Maxima 5wt RFF. Hall's revalve them about 20% lighter for me also. With the .40kg springs I got 40mm static sag and 75mm rider sag. PERFECT NUMBERS. Bike handles like a dream. Oh, I did have to go much heavier on the rear spring. 5 sizes heavier. Went from 5.0kg to 6.0kg. Sag number there ended up perfect also. I race my bike in Enduro and Hare Scrambles.
 
Vinduro said:
My 2011 WR150 has open chamber forks that work quite well. I weigh about 190lbs and found the stock .42kg fork springs way too heavy. I ended up with .40kg. If I weighed 20lbs less I would need .38kg. I did raise my oil level to 110mm with Maxima 5wt RFF. Hall's revalve them about 20% lighter for me also. With the .40kg springs I got 40mm static sag and 75mm rider sag. PERFECT NUMBERS. Bike handles like a dream. Oh, I did have to go much heavier on the rear spring. 5 sizes heavier. Went from 5.0kg to 6.0kg. Sag number there ended up perfect also. I race my bike in Enduro and Hare Scrambles.
Click to expand...

Good info thanks........

......update...

.....sprockets 15 front 51 rear, now changed to 13 front......powervalve was incorreectly set, so this has been altered....rear linkage has had it new parts on order all of the linkage was seized and bearings falling to bits....whats next im wondering...
 
You'll be better of shipping that bike to me, I'll give it some much needed TLC!
Be sure to check out the jetting.
 
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