• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

43mm YZ clamps/forks on a '83 CR ??

You need to weld an extension in the stem tube. Or you can use a 1985 KX125 triple clamp set and get a bearing from ALL Balls to fit the bottom of the stem and match the race OD
 
Just brain-storming and wonder if it would be possible to put on my '83 500CR.
The USD forks that were available on the later LC bikes; they were 43mm I think. Using those trees would be a straight up bolt on for your frame?
 
I just took off my 90s yz250 43mm kayaba front end off my 1983 wr430 all you need is mitsubishi wheel bearings in the stem but I had the full front end inlcuding wheel..the head stem is longer on the yz and potrudes about 15mm above the lock nut but you can make up a spacer easily.even the steering stoppers are in the right place.
 
My '84 250wr I purchased from the kid the first owner tweeted the suspension. He was around 300lbs too. The forks feel great and don't go to bottom out at all. What's wrong with the orginal forks? Why not go to the newer husky front end with the disc brake? Is there any info to tweek the orginal forks to make them better? It's the wt of the oil vs the flo? How about the gold valves?
 
There are later fork mods for the earlier forks involving drilling and different bottoming cones (I think). The gold vales have a mixed record around here
 
I just took off my 90s yz250 43mm kayaba front end off my 1983 wr430 all you need is mitsubishi wheel bearings in the stem but I had the full front end inlcuding wheel..the head stem is longer on the yz and potrudes about 15mm above the lock nut but you can make up a spacer easily.even the steering stoppers are in the right place.

The 43mm YZ conventional forks for 82 - 87 YZ has a triple clamp with a triple stem that is too short. Kawasaki and Suzuki both have triple stems that is long enough. The neck on the KX frames I have is equal height to the 78 ML frame and any other Husqvarna with the 25mm stem
 
The 40mm forks work very well with stiffer springs and 500ml of 20w oil per leg.

Totally agree 40mm with heavy oil work better than the 94? 43mm kybs, not as good as modified 2009 48mm showas or kybs but an improvement over early usds.
I made up new air valve assemblies so i could slide the forks up through the triples about 40mm without hitting the bars, used ktm bar mounts for fatbars with spacers.
This helps the bike turn by reducing rake draw backs are less offset on triples and drum brake, pluses are more stable deflects less and teaches you to use rear brake more.
 
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