• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

430 auto parts needed

This was a very complete bike, registration plate still fitted from many years ago.
 

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A few more...
 

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And more...
 

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and more
 

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Some interesting tools.
 

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More tools
 

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The foundry said that they would sand-cast the shoes. The factory items are die cast but the cost of having a new set of dies made will run into the $ thousands - totally uneconomic. The only specialist work required would be the drilling of holes for the mounting pins and the retaining roll pins - these must be is precise position or parts won't fit.

I will talk to them again in the next couple of days and conform that they can still do them. I am under the impression that making a few sets at the same time is more economic for me and for them.

Jim - since you have some factory new parts I will need a couple of measurements from you if it is not too inconvenient. Just to make sure that everything is done properly.



The inside diameter of the drum is 130mm
Let me know what elese you need!

IMG_2773.jpg
 
I have finally had a chance to measure up my factory shoes - photos are here. I have no set measurements regarding wear limit so thanks Jim for your help. I now have to build these up to Jim's thickness and then off to the foundry.
 

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These are my factory shoes for my '87 model. The 2nd and 3rd gear shoes are different and I recall reading somewhere that they were changed in '87/88 to give slightly different shift points. The 500's and earlier 430's used shoes that were the same for both gears so maybe OP's bike has been upgraded. His shoes are worn out and stuffed anyway. He has a bit of time anyway because his engine needs a complete clean out and going over - cases, new bearings and rebore.
 

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IMG_8492.JPG

These are the NOS shoes I own.
I can lend you those to give to the foundry for a neat model.
The numbers I wrote are those written on the bags where they were found.
Must be some mistakes on numbers.
 
These are my factory shoes for my '87 model. The 2nd and 3rd gear shoes are different and I recall reading somewhere that they were changed in '87/88 to give slightly different shift points. The 500's and earlier 430's used shoes that were the same for both gears so maybe OP's bike has been upgraded. His shoes are worn out and stuffed anyway. He has a bit of time anyway because his engine needs a complete clean out and going over - cases, new bearings and rebore.



You got that right Rowan, just for a laugh, I'll measure my shoes in comparison to your new shoes. Should be interesting since it was still "working" when parked.

As an update, I have sourced a complete intermediate shaft with shoes, drum etc. locally here in Australia along with a good set of casessince the main bearings have spun in my cases.
 
Well I finally made some progress in rebuilding my shoes up to standard specifications. I had to find some cardboard that is the right thickness - I eventually got some from a friendly printing company.
I just used double sided sticky tape to hold it in place - it works very well.
All my factory shoes have been modified slightly. There are two places where they have been filed/machined flat spots. There are small holes for screws to space them out a little - to compensate for wear on the shoes. The only problem with this method is that the springs will be over-stretched and brake much more easily. I know this from experience.IMG_7593.jpegIMG_7594.jpeg
 
Yes Michel - my clutch shoes currently have mall screws to space them out - just like your photo. Eventually the clutched will wear and end up stretching the springs even further to engage - the springs will be over-stretched and brake. This is what was happening to me several years ago - ride for half an hour and suddenly have only a 2 speed auto because most of the springs had broken and the clutches were all engaging at the same time. I would have 1st gear and 3rd gear - not a happy riding experience.

I recall being told several years ago that brake material would not be good for the husky shoes. Clutch material is usually designed to work on a dry clutch - no fluid. I know that some farm tractors have wet clutches but you would still have to cut grooves (like standard shoes) and this would cause the material to wear quickly. Also getting such a small amount of material to stick properly would be a problem - according to a clutch shop.

I see that the shoes in your photos are custom made - machined from solid material. Is it the same hardness as the standard shoes?
 
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