• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

40 mm forks

suprize

suprize

Husqvarna
Pro Class
any one filled and redrilled the damping holes on the 40mm forks? i would like less compression and a tad more rebound (oil change just doesnt cut it and no matter how hard i look i cant find the clickers:mad: ). years ago there was always articles on how to adjust your forks for japanese bikes but im wondering if anyone has ever changed the damper rod orifices in any way? which holes are the comp and rebound?
 
Have you checked the white plastic seal things on the top of the damper rod are still working as they should . Mine had swollen and the ends were overlapping . Cut them down with a sharp knife and they felt way better
 
ajcmbrown said:
Can later model internals be used in earlier 40mm forks? Probably not a huge improvement......
Click to expand...


my brother put 85 CR dampening components into 87 XC forks
not sure if they are completely interchangeable back to the 1st 40mm
 
the simplest fix is the 87 forks with the damping in the lower part of the forks.i dont need to comply with any rules for components age etc so i will probably go this way...i know where there is a set that just need a rechrome. my forks are 85 models with the plain old rods with holes in them. they work ok but 10wt is too light on rebound and not bad on comp but 15 is too heavy on comp but not bad on rebound? i was wondering if anyone had fettled the rods. the comp holes might need opening up a tad for 15 wt to stop them stepping out on small bumps. i like the pro circuit kit tho..where do ya gettem??
top out washers get a regular c/out so im on top of that:lol: . im going to try 12 wt at my next oil change...it may be ok.
 
i try also to know how to redrilled the damping hole
some do it on the 35mm fork also
someone have try this and how to do it?
manythanks
@+fred
 
I know my neighbor, that raced for Wetzel's knew how to modify the holes.
I'm not sure how or whom he got the info from. One thing for sure, he changed fork oil constantly about every race.
I can't believe that someone out there wouldn't have this info?

On this Husky CR 250, he has Ceri up front and Fox Air shox on rear.
This is couple old photos I took. Of course guy was always leading and no bikes behind him in sight! This was running the pro class too!

Notice the cross bar on his bars? Never found a set quite like them?
 

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Husky Products had damping rods that supported the 1986 400WR I have and those are compatible with the 82 and later 40mm forks. It may work in the 35mm fork but would likely be too long for that applications.

To modify damping rod holes it is simple if the hole needs to be bigger. Just drill to the appropriate size. If need be smaller, tack weld shut and redrill to size. Now you just need to know which holes control compression damping and those for rebound. I would consider closing holes with Devcon but I have concerns about adhesion.

I believe the upper small holes control compression damping and the larger hole at the bottom of the rod control rebound. Out of respect to George, I will not divulge the specs for the Husky Products rods I have.
 
suprize said:
oookkaaayyy. I think i will just get the 87 forks and get the tubes rechromed:thumbsup: shimples...
Click to expand...
dont forget you need the 87-88 wheel too..do the forks come with the dual piston brembo caliper too?
the 87-88 forks work pretty good, and the braking power is a noticeable step up from the awful 85-86 discs..the braking alone is a good reason to do the swap, let alone better fork action...

dont let the cst viscosity confuse you..its a good measure of what an oil really is. in suspension fluid, viscosity is everything! its always stated at 40c and 100c degrees, so you can see how it performs at hot and cold temps..a useful tool for picking transmission or engine oil too, as the "service grade" is broad..
 
Hi Surprise,
I was talking with a fellow VERI member who you know from Horsham that has an 84 WR 250 and he has fitted gold valves directly on top of damper rods. He says they make a real noticeable difference. They came from Ballarat suspension shop (name eludes me at present).

I have an enquiry with shop at the moment but they are not back till 23 Jan.

regards,
 
Race Tech Emulator valves are a waste of money, at the very best they will be equal to the stock forks after a LOT of work. As they come out of the box they are much worse than stock.
 
I have had good luck with them but have to fiddle with them. Have got set of '86 forks on '87 430CR and after drilling out the rods and extra holes on the GV and messing with GV springs 4 turns in, set oil 6" from top 10wt...no complaints
 
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