• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

All 2st 2T Gearbox Oil

I use 10w40 from Sam's Club. About $1.75 per bottle. I change the oil every hour. Never had a problem in about 5 years doing it.
 
Rotella T 15-40. Changed every 10hrs.
Both 4 strokes and 2 strokes for the last 10 years and never one issue.

Costs about $12/gal @ walmart.

It works and its cheap. Win-win.
 
I was recommended by a bike mechanic years ago to use cheap engine oil in a 2t gearbox, I used the cheapest oil I could find in my rm250, it was about $5 for 4lt at coles supermarket. It worked great with no clutch issues, and at that price I would change it after every ride.
 
I use 10w40 from Sam's Club. About $1.75 per bottle. I change the oil every hour. Never had a problem in about 5 years doing it.

Using an automotive oil is chancey because they use friction modifiers and make your clutch slip. Why change oil every hour ???? Waste of oil, time and money. I change about every 300 miles or so. That would be 12 hours or more. 2 stroke gear boxes are not as critical about the oil as the top end of a 4 stroke. Use a good synthetic and the oil lasts longer anyway. ATF is a very inferior oil although some use it because it works good with a wet clutch. Also remember, just because some mechanic recommended using cheap automotive oil years ago, the oil is not the same as it was then. Now they add friction modifiers to try and get more milage and life out of the engine when they reduced ZDDP ( Zinc / Phosphorus ) and started to have problems with engine wear. They reduced ZDDP because it ruined catalitic converters by coating them in the metalic lubricants as the engine burned oil. But ZDDP was and is a very good lubricant and stress additive.
 
I use ATF+4 in my GasGas, I put Gear Saver 80w in my Husky because Bill gave me a free bottle with the bike. Both are synthetic blends.... I'm not sure which one I will keep using.
 
Using an automotive oil is chancey because they use friction modifiers and make your clutch slip. Why change oil every hour ???? Waste of oil, time and money. I change about every 300 miles or so. That would be 12 hours or more. 2 stroke gear boxes are not as critical about the oil as the top end of a 4 stroke. Use a good synthetic and the oil lasts longer anyway. ATF is a very inferior oil although some use it because it works good with a wet clutch. Also remember, just because some mechanic recommended using cheap automotive oil years ago, the oil is not the same as it was then. Now they add friction modifiers to try and get more milage and life out of the engine when they reduced ZDDP ( Zinc / Phosphorus ) and started to have problems with engine wear. They reduced ZDDP because it ruined catalitic converters by coating them in the metalic lubricants as the engine burned oil. But ZDDP was and is a very good lubricant and stress additive.

My oil comes out fried whether I use standard 10w40 or gear saver from maxima, bel-ray, etc. When you ride expert mx and a lot of sand, I don't care what type of oil is in the transmission. It's trashed after about an hour. I never noticed the slipping clutch when I did 50 races in a season a few years back...on one clutch. Run what you know or like, that's what I do.
 
I use Honda Proline 80 wt in some of my bikes and ATF type F in others. I change it when it starts to look somewhat dirty. It's usually about 5 or 6 rides worth. I still have the original clutch and tranny parts in my 25 year old trail bike.
 
ATF always helps with clutch fade. Dex III is SAE 0w-20 which might be a little light for your gearbox. Castrol Transynd has the same slippyness as Dexron fluids and is used in Medium Duty trucks (lots of shear strength). Type F ATF is more grabby and causes more RPM drop when you let the clutch out. My vote is for the Transynd, it can take the heat of the clutch, lubricates under extreme pressures and temperature ranges, and has the friction modifiers for smooth shifting.
 
Merely a wild thought running through my mind. Why do manufacturers spec a motor oil and not a trans oil. Im sure they have a test to find out what to spec for. Anybody know that test and the results of it? Or what do the pro mmanufacture teams run under race conditions and changing after each day or race? I am not arguing the choice of oil, just would like to hear about the test side of it.
 
I have ridden some pretty harsh conditions with the Motul Transoil Expert in many of my bikes. One time we rode in sandy/wet conditions with lots of climbing for about 4 hours. Oil came out still in good shape, was not burnt or broken down. That is why I always stick with the Motul.
 
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