• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc 250-300 differences (not performance)

sned2502st

Husqvarna
AA Class
I have read a lot on here about problems and tips. But it seems like most are for the 300. I have a 2011 Wr 250. What are the differences in the 2 bikes? Other than bore size. Carborator? Reed Valves? Clutch cable? What did they change on the 250 since 2011 or is the 2013 the same bike?
Not having any problems, just curious but I thought they were 99.9 % the same. I would like to know what to do about the clutch cable. I cant start the bike in gear to save my life.
 
the original 300 was a kit you bought from the dealer to replace the cylinder piston etc. like the 144 kit for the 125
they were so popular they built them as original factory bikes
 
I have read a lot on here about problems and tips. But it seems like most are for the 300. I have a 2011 Wr 250. What are the differences in the 2 bikes? Other than bore size. Carborator? Reed Valves? Clutch cable? What did they change on the 250 since 2011 or is the 2013 the same bike?
Not having any problems, just curious but I thought they were 99.9 % the same. I would like to know what to do about the clutch cable. I cant start the bike in gear to save my life.


A number of us have replaced the stock clutch cable with a Motion Pro Terminator cable with very good results. Just call motion pro and order one, make sure to order the Terminator not a stock replacement. They can even make custom lengths if you need. I ended up ordering a shorter one when I replaced the stock clutch lever with an ASV. The stock length was a bit too long and I had to crank the adjusters all the way to take up the slack.
 
Different jetting, same carb. Everything else besides the bigger topend, the same I think.
 
Thanks for the info. I got to do something about the clutch cable. I will order the Terminator soon. As far as the bike goes I havent did anything to it and it runs great. Does seem to lose power if you dont shift soon enough, compared to the YZ250 I came off of. Only seems to be a problem in sand or very loose dirt.
 
Thanks for the info. I got to do something about the clutch cable. I will order the Terminator soon. As far as the bike goes I havent did anything to it and it runs great. Does seem to lose power if you dont shift soon enough, compared to the YZ250 I came off of. Only seems to be a problem in sand or very loose dirt.[/quote

Check you powervalve to be sure that the little black connecter arm is connected. And check your jetting to be sure you are running proper main jet. I have a yz250 also, and rode it as primary bike for years. This bike should scream like your YZ up top, and way stronger on bottom, when set up properly.
 
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