• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Austria - About 2014 & Newer
     FE = 4st Enduro & FC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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FE/FC 2016 FE 501 milage/consumption?

J3THRO

J3THRO

Husqvarna
Going to start a rally conversion on my new 501 and I am sourcing parts. First up feul tanks. I need a range of 300km at least.
I have found a 19L tank and an Acerbis 16L tank for KTM 500 EXC's and I assume that those will fit my husky too. I am going to need rear feul tanks to cover a 309km range but want to keep that to a minumum and also need to try and balance front and rear as much as possible.

What feul consumption/milage can I look at? Keep in mind that at least 50% of that 300km range will be in soft sand.
My current rally bike is a 2013 WR 450 and I used an average of 13km/L to work out my range which meant that I had to carry at least 24L.

Can I expect the same from the Husky?
Anobody use the ktm powerparts tanks or Acerbis tanks, are they any good?
How simular are the subframes on the Huskies and ktm's ?

Thanks
 
The fuel consumption is really good on the FE501. I don't know about the big tanks as I have never bothered for the riding I do.
I ride the bike often 20 km (at 100km/h) on the road to a place where we ride, ride it there for 2-3 hours in technical terrain, ride it back home and still have half a tank left.
My riding buddy with his honda crf 450 is almost empty when we get home.

I'm pretty sure you get way better fuel consumption than the Yamaha, much closer to 20km/L
 
I have an Acerbis 4.1 gallon tank and it fits well and takes only minutes to install. Just mount the seat after. The front of the seat pan should be trimmed back though about 3/4" of an inch and re-stapled. With that done. It takes 1 Bolt and snap on the quick connect to the ZipTy fuel filter I use and connect the fuel pump wire.
I bought and mounted a complete new spare fuel pump assembly and installed it in mine so no fussing around with swapping the fuel pump over in mine. With the quick connect already installed on the KTM/Husky Powerparts 90 degree fuel fitting. It will go a long ways if needed. These tanks are made for the KTM XCWs and will not fit the FE501 S models unless all the Charcoal canister, smog crap on the left side of the engine is removed. The 4th photo is a picture of the 90 degree fitting I am talking about on my stock tank. There are 2 different ones. The one you want is for the thinner walled tanks. The part#78107988017 pictured is for the stock factory thicker tanks. It will not fit the Acerbis tanks. The Acerbis tanks come with the fuel pump fittings included and the needed hardware too but its a straight down barbed outlet fitting. Or get the part#77707988017 fitting to go with a 90 degree connection. It doesn't hang down and it is much harder to damage or pull loose the fuel hose with these 90 degree Banjo fittings. This type fitting is an absolute must have where I ride in the thick brush in AZ.
 

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Mine gets high 40 mpg and even 50 mpg plus with a 14 t CS. Current gearing is 13/49. My stock tank gets me 110 miles easy before the reserve light comes on.

How hard do you ride? If you're pinning it a good bit I can't give you accurate mileage since I ride less aggressive these days.
 
Thanks Bikesparky and BigTim for the info this helps loads.

@ Reveille Like I said about 50% of the rally coarses are thick soft sand that tends to suck feul like a mofo. In fact most of my training is done in soft sand big dunes kind of terrain. Prep for the worst kind of approach. I like sand and tend to do better on the sand stages.
I find the biggest factor with feul consumption is still the riders right hand.
Thanks again guys
 
J3THRO,
I find the biggest factor with shredding and destroying rear tires to be the same thing. The right hand. We have one thing in common anyway. "Using it" I don't pay much attention to fuel consumption, yet I haven't really had to so far.

I'll be installing my 3rd rear tire this weekend. 12 hrs. on stock AT 81, 30hrs. on a Sedona 887 for use through the Monsoon season and the damp sand washes. We have a mix of sand, rocks and open red dirt, rocky embedded 2 tracks in the high AZ desert here.

Going to the Sedona 907 next.

I only have about 620 miles on my FE 501 so far but a lot of slow single track with lots of brush thrown in, but my right hand seems to be connected more to rear tire destruction. The fuel I just pour in. I connect my oil changes more closely to how many tires I've gone through per jug of Mobil 1. LOL.
 
LOM,

I am hard on tires but I don't pull them off or throw them out if they are still good. Probably the longest wearing tire I've ever ran is a Motoz Tractionator, but in a 140/80/18 size on my G450X. Although that's the size that came standard on that bike. It's too damned wide and gets a squared off footprint once it starts wearing out the middle and then it doesn't turn in well after that. So I have resisted and have been reluctant to throw one on my FE501. Even in the correct size. Its a good long lasting tire though.

There's lots of jagged shale stone here and lots of volcanic veins that run through here too. Especially over the foot hills out in the terrain North of the Border Fence for 30 miles until you reach the Forested Tree line at about 6300 ft. to 8000 ft. elevation. In the Chiricahua mountains. That's if I go North. Right here though I'm at 4100 ft. elevation to 5000ft outside of town heading down the line going east here locally. I fry them down to about 1/2 the height of the knobs and that's it.

I usually have a new matching tire on hand of the same brand and model. As I buy them in pairs usually always for the rear. That way I can compare them to a new one of the same tire. So I know how bad or worn it actually is. I'll keep 3 or 4 new ones on hand of a few different brands I like, all the time even if I'm going to change out to a new model or brand of a different tire all together. Again I'll buy 2 at a time.

Sometimes if I'm roosting my buddies and they get pissed off. I'll just say come on over I got a brand new one of the same tire that's pissing you off. I'll sell it to you for what it cost me plus shipping and pocket a few bucks. LOL.

This area is extremely hard on tires, Yes but look this area of "Douglas AZ". Up on "Google Earth" and you will see the now left over old huge black "PhelpsDodge" / "Freeport-MC Moran" is the new owner, You see the Old Copper smelter tailings slag pile we have here. Which I ride often around the base of usually alone. Although I'm riding the rim of dirt that gets washed down of the, like glass melted lava slag. You still have to ride up on it in a few areas to get to the drainage ditches that go around the outer rim of it on the east side of Whitewater Draw. Its hell on any brand tires. But the ditches I get down into and ride, to me are a blast. Nobody else really thinks so. Very Dangerous place to be at. A good tire is a must just to get out of some of these areas. I've been the only Motorcycle to ever get into some of these ravines trust me. My Buddies know the danger and don't want to go with me down into there.

The slag pile will destroy heavy equipment tires in a matter of days, Bobcat skid steer tires will be ground up to nothing in a few trips up on top of it which will be about 24 hours and they are gone. I don't ride up on it where it is pulverized and like sharp gravel. Just around the lava like solid base maybe half way around the north edge and to the far east end.

Dirt bike tires are cheap and more fun to wear out compared to my Tubbed '66 Plymouth Belvedere Muscle car. A pair for the back of it are over $800.00
 
No big surprize there with the tyres I kind of expected that. Simular to my 990 R it eats rear tyres if you not eazy on the throttle.
I'm Because of all the sand riding I run softer compound mostly Mitas but we go riding different terrain and then thise soft compounds get annialated.
How are the 501's on sprokets + chain?
 
I'm running 13 front /and a "JT" 48 steel sprocket on the rear. I don't mind any weight difference. I have a new "JT" 49 too but haven't tried it. Bike has still been over 100 mph many times and its spinning the rear wheel doing that right now.
Stock rear was an aluminum 50 tooth sprocket.
I don't see any real sprocket wear so far but have a few new front sprockets put away also and will replace the chain soon with a much better quality brand before I do see any such wear.
With a pair of new sprockets at the same time of course.
I run an "Enduro Engineering Case Saver" with there billet "Slave Cylinder Cover" but don't like to take chances wearing out a chain to the point of it getting questionable, Stock factory chains aren't always of the best quality to expect them to last too long IMO.
 
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