2013 Te449 Blew Up? (video!)

[Husqy ripper]

Can anyone throw some suggestions as to where to start with my bike? Bad clunking then she just shut off and wouldn’t crank over again. I actually captured this on video.

View: https://youtu.be/ixqTUaqNaaA

 

[Husqy ripper]

Anyone still on here?

 

[Dirtdame]

People still are on here. Hard to tell from the video what gave out though. Time to start taking the engine down and do an inspection for parts that may have gotten broken off and wedged where they don't belong. Maybe start with the ignition (stator), then move to tearing the top end down, then check the crank. Could be anything, anywhere. Drain the oil and check for debris in your oil, screens and filter.

 

[Husqy ripper]

I can't tell for sure by the noise I can here other than the exhaust.

The battery being low is a sign that it may be the stator flywheel bolts coming loose, as its not charging the battery. Search "Husky 449 Stator screws coming loose-Flywheel stator failures" for the Husky 449/511 or BMW G450X. You will be directed to several links that should show you plenty of info for how to inspect for this issue.

This is a well known issue that results in the heads of the screws either backing out and getting shearing clean off and the heads of those screws turning the coil windings into a copper rats nest. I would start with laying the bike over on its right side, pull the shifter lever and the left side stator cover inspect the 6 flywheel screws that hold the starters freewheel gear to the stator flywheel.

If that's not the issue take them out and change them immediately anyway while you have it off and apart, (if you can even get all 6 of the factory screws out) using quality allen head sockets. Toss the original screws out, they are junk. The size needed is M6 dia. x 12mm long x1.5 thread pitch- class 10.9 or 12.9 hardness bolts. I prefer the shorter head of a standard hex headed bolt rather then a Allen head cap screw as the small socket head is easily stripped out. If you use hex headed bolts. You will need a thin walled 10mm socket to install them. Use brake cleaner with a clean rag stuffed behind the flywheel and make sure you have clean dry threads and make sure you install the new screws/bolts with the minimum of red Loctite. Torque to 11 lb.ft. or 15 newton meters for 10.9 hardness or 13 lb.ft. or 18 nm for 12.9 harness bolts. Do not over torque these new replacement screws. The factory used inferior hollow shank low profile Allen headed cap screws for this application, over torqued them on day 1 and the service spec value in the factory service CD rom says to Torque them to 25nm which stretches the heads and causes them to fail.

If the stator is all good and you are able to get away with just replacing the flywheel bolts. (I would highly recommend just changing them out with new hardware regardless of what your problem is. If you don't you will be doing it sooner or later and its a very costly repair.)

With that out of the way:

As "Dirt Dame" said above. Stand the bike back up and drain the oil while you are at it, closely inspect the strainer screens.

Get yourself a copy of the factory repair CD rom disc if you don't already have it.

After that, tearing into the engine is the only way to find out what's up internally.

Keep us posted as to what you find out.

If you listen when I am at the stop sign right before I pull out you can hear an extreme chatter and then shortly after is the failure. I will begin with the stator. If those bolts backed out and that was the chatter I heard, what would it have damaged?

 

[Huskynoobee]

You'll know when you pull the cover for sure. Don't think I could explain better than Tim. And dump the oil like DD says and check those screens for metal chunks.

 

[Huskynoobee]

You'll know when you pull the cover for sure. Don't think I could explain better than Tim. And dump the oil like DD says and check those screens for metal chunks.

 

[Husqy ripper]

I could have sworn the last time I went to adjust the shifter, the frame prevented it with the motor in the frame. Perhaps I am mistaken. I am waiting for my plugs for my car in the mail and heading over to the garage where I work on my stuff and will try to remove the cover.

 

[Husqy ripper]

Also, how can I check if mine has wide or narrow key?

 

[Husqy ripper]

You guys were spot on!!! I thank you guys. Firstly, should there have been oil in this cavity? Secondly, should I assume there is damage to the bottom end, due to there being those manufacture drilled holes in the crankcase itself? How do I replace the stator, as the wiring is so hard to trace where it goes to, and doesn't look like you can simply unplug at the stator assembly itself. I may be taking this to a local shop at this point to make sure everything is done correctly. Also, the gear that the starter drives fell off (hence why it is now zip tied on), I think I put it back on right, but not sure. Seemed like it only went back on fully a certain way. Also, got the bolts mixed up from the cover, some are shorter some are longer. Any insight for when I reassemble?

​

​

​

​

 

[Husqy ripper]

There were what appeared to be black pieces of plastic in there as well, any ideas as to what that could have been?

 

[Husqy ripper]

A few more

 

[Husqy ripper]

The question then becomes, how do I source this puller?

Also, you are saying spray brake cleaner directly into the secondary oil filter holes? I always clean them when I change my oil anyways so I am familiar with them.

Should be a class action lawsuit lol I didn’t even know this was an issue.

 

[Husqy ripper]

Perhaps my local Husqvarna dealer still has one??? Is that even worth a call?

 

[Husqy ripper]

Also, lmao, there is a sixth Allen bolt unaccounted for. The other ones seemed to mostly have been contained inside the flywheel. Where should I check for the sixth? If it went into the bottom end, am I done for?

 

[Husqy ripper]

Sorry I was adding to the earlier post. I had to drop my work truck off and get my own truck.

Start calling around for the 449 puller and 18mm "pressure insert cap". I'll look up the part numbers for you, and add them to this post.

As I said, "Google" or better yet "Bing" BMW G450X stator failures it will link to YouTube, Thumpertalk, ADV rider, café Husky. and as I said before. The oldest info on this subject is archived back on G450riders.org Forum site.

There are also YouTube videos for this required inspection done by David Bates aka "Dangermouse".

Or Google/ Bing Husky 449 stator failures. It will link you back to here to the links and threads on this issue at Café Husky.

I bought a puller from My Local Husky dealer here north of me in Tucson AZ last year around this time. it was about $120.00 shipped with the 18mm pressure insert cap. Do not try to pull it with out this cap or it will destroy the thin end of the crank stub that has to fit the case bearing tightly. Any swaging of that stem and the cranks is scrap trust me. I've seen a few of them that got damaged over the years and the side case would not go back on.

I watched the Australian man’s video where he uses the different size bolts. He heats the flywheel substantially. Is that safe to do on the bike?

 

[Husqy ripper]

What was the clanking noise? Was my piston hitting the Allen bolt? Or crank chewing it up?

 

[Husqy ripper]

The holes I was speaking of I believe there were three circular holes behind the flywheel to the right side you could see the crank through

 

[Husqy ripper]

Can you link me to a thin walled 10mm socket. All the ones I am finding don’t look long enough to clear the flywheel

 

[Husqy ripper]

Is this all I will need from Motosport? Any other bolts I should order while I’m at it? Might as well get the gasket too huh.

 

[Husqy ripper]

When you say don’t use anything but spray gasket sealer, are you saying if I can’t use the stock gasket and I am using another method? Or is this referring to something else?