2013 TE310R - Issues

[rideitall]

I'm new here as I recently picked up a 2013 TE310R with very low KMs (was under 500). Being a long time since I have owned a bike (with a motor anyway).

The previous owner had let the bike sit through most of the summer so it was running a little rough when I picked it up. Drained the tank, new gas and stabilizer and it was good. At least through part of the tank. The previous owner had the bike uncorked - guts of pipe pulled, O2 sensor removed, air filter cage removed, and remapped. The thing is loud, but does get some back-firing when letting of the throttle in while still in gear.

Started to run rough at higher idle like it was missing or getting too little or too much fuel, so I thought it was likely some crap at the bottom of the tank. So took the tank right off drained it as best possible, put new gas in along with additives (recommended by LBS) to stabilize and clean fuel system components. After reading a few more threads I decided that maybe the injector was partially clogged. Took out the injector, cleaned it by running through carb cleaner while opening up the injector with a 9v battery (injector was clean and had a nice spray pattern).

Still had issues. At about this time the bike also started to have issues starting like the battery was dying or lacking power. I would put the battery tender on over night if I wanted to ride the next day. Had to disconnect the battery as would click every 2 -3 seconds if not. (I read another thread on this seems to be another common issue). I picked up a new battery, fully charged on the tender and installed. Still the starting issues. It would just click at the starter relay. If I kicked it over or rolled the bike backward against the gear, sometimes it would then turn over with the starter.

Long story slightly shorter, it is at the bike shop now, after the first attempt to get the idle and running issues fixed, that problem still persists as does the starter / starting issue. Just got word back they couldn't even start the damn thing.

The bike might have 570km on it now, most of the km I have put on the bike are going to / from the bike shop. Do I have the mightiest lemon among the Husky lemons?

Any help / suggestions are appreciated. So far my experience with Husky has me pulling my hair out frustrated, and wanting to sell the bike and go back to pedal powered bikes. Perhaps I should have bought a CRF250L, or or XT250 ... rather than try to get a bike that I thought would have a little more performance but might be a little bit more finicky.

Ok there is my first post (almost novel). What the F^*(&&()**!

 

[NCSteve]

Welcome aboard I'm not familiar with the TE310 except for what I've read here, but pretty sure once you get it sorted you'll be happy with it.
This doesn't sound good "guts of pipe pulled" A new muffler may be a step in the right direction.

 

[Johnrg]

Sounds like 2 issues. Potential battery getting weak and when running the lights discharging. The clicking while charging sounds is what occurs when you charge a battery on these bikes. Best to supervise and stop charging at that point or charge off the bike. The starting issues and clicking is the battery unable to turn the engine over. It has an auto decompressor that may not be opening the associated valve to decompress on starting. Almost all of us have had to deal with it and have that valve shim replaced to be at the tight end of spec. Tell your mechanic. A Lithium Battery such as an EarthX has more power for starting and can overcome a little of the compression but best fix is adjust that valve and get a LI battery if yours is not holding a charge. It sounds like a potential issue as it may be charged when you start but becomes drained in time. Maybe not but a cheap multimeter helps to diagnose just sitting and condition the next day after a full charge, and checking charging voltage with bike running. Also... Do not keep pressing the starter if it clicks. You can easily burn out the starter. A kick or a bump start can get you going.

 

[rideitall]

Thanks for the responses. My comments on guts of the pipe was about having the catalytic converter removed, spark arrestor

 

[rideitall]

Thanks for the responses. My comments on guts of the pipe was about having the catalytic converter removed, spark arrestor (fat finger typing error), and baffle at the end of the pipe removed as part of the uncorking process. That is why it is so loud and I think at least partially why it back fires or pop when letting off the throttle.

With reference to the battery, I had thought the battery that was in the bike was weak and not holding a charge well, so I replaced it with a new battery, that had substantially more cranking amps (100 CC vs 80CC for the battery it replaced). Perhaaps I should have got a Lithium Ion battery almost twice the price but has up to 130CCA. I really don't think the battery is the issue with regard to turning the bike over, but rather, a possible issue with the starter or maybe a valve adjustment for decompression.

Not certain on how best to progress without spending big $ for the shop to diagnose and work through the possible problems. The bike only has about 550KM. So realistically, neither the starter of the valve adjustment should be an issue, but it is or maybe something else all together.

I had read on a starter thread somewhere, how a problem with a starter left unchecked, just kicked to start, as the electric did not work, lead to other and more expensive issues. I ask this as the starter appears to be a costly replacement, if parts can be found or even an expensive rebuild.

The other issue is the poor running. Again, this might have some relation back to the exhaust. I have a baffle / spark arrestor on order that might help with this, but will definitely quiet the bike down some. I can deal with the back firing or popping when letting of the throttle while under load, but the fluttering / bogging kind of issue at half throttle or more is not good.

More suggestions. The shop I am dealing with does service husky, but appears to focus on the newer ones that the are still a dealer for. I am up in Vancouver, BC and it appears that buying a non current albiet still fairly new Husky was not a good move.

 

[rideitall]

Well got the news from the bikeshop, it was a sheared flywheel key. They fixed it and the bike is running again. The shop is not a fan of the 2013/2014 Husky's.

It sounds like that there are a number of folks on the boards that run these bikes and the older ones as well with good results. Are these bikes worth the hassle and cost? Not certain I want to be pulling flywheels and replacing keys or paying a shop to do this more than once. Uncertain on whether to keep the bike or sell it and move to a more supported Husky or KTM model.

Comments?

 

[Johnrg]

You did buy the bike used and it ran rough, so really hard to advise. That said I am having my engine rebuilt after close to 4k miles due to a head gasket. I sorted any issues before I put a lot of miles on the bike because these bikes had some assembly issues but once sorted reliable. Never touched the engine during this time otherwise. It seems that if one never sorted the decompressor/starter issue and beat on the bike at all in that regard, damage could have occurred.

 

[robertaccio]

great bikes when all is dialed.....but "delicate" was my best term for them.

 

[glangston]

Yes, adjustment of decomp device is critical.
Setting TPS before setting CO, 1,2,3 also a good idea.

Starters in some bikes broke. If all is right they start like a light switch.

 

[rideitall]

I guess I am making progress on getting the bike working in the manner that I would expect. Got out for a great ride this weekend. Electric starter not working so kick starting was mandatory (not too bad, but a bit of a pain). After the ride I took the start off and apart, definitely some black marks or scarring on the wires and a burnt smell. The worm gear off of the starter looks mint. Couldn't see in well enough to see what the gears that it meshes with look like. I think it is just the weak starter. Now trying to get a hold of an updated / stronger starter. I have spoken with Bill (Bill's bikes in Salem) and he can get me a rebuild HD starter but it will take a month.

That is an option but hoping for something quicker so I can get out riding quicker. Anyone have other ideas on getting a starter for a 2013 TE310R?

Sure wish we had a shop like Bill's up in Vancouver, BC that knows the older Husky's, has parts and wants to work on them. The lack of resources in the immediate area has me rethinking my bike purchase. Hopefully once I get the new starter along with getting the valve shimming to the proper spec that controls the decomp, I can ride the bike without further issues, because this bike is a blast to ride.

It's funny how I was originally worried about the seat height on this bike, now as I look at any of the newer Husky FE350S or KTM 350 EXC bikes and note that the seat is a good inch or higher, I wonder if that would have any impact on riding those bikes as a less experienced rider.

 

[Johnrg]

Sounds like evidence of a bike needing the decomp working better. A VIN check may show if your gears are the newer starter gears. The early '13's needed some replaced but the later models had them from the factory. With a rebuilt starter and the decomp working, if you have the newer gears should be all set for a few thousand miles anyway.

 

[Trenchcoat85]

I have a '14 310r; just this week is my 3rd anniversary at 6000 miles (and my first failure: starter motor. I'm still riding it- just kicking now... and I found out I hate kickstarting, all of the sudden, after 49 years of riding )

I am surprised you sheared a key- I hope they fixed it right.

I thought the stock AGM battery was 130 CCA? maybe 120- but definitely above the numbers you were talking about. have you tired starting it while it's on a (good) charger?

CRF250L or XT250 would have been a much better choice for someone at your level, I believe. And, btw, the 310r does NOT have just "...a little more performance" then either of these bikes- this racing-based machine is about double the hp (8500rpms+). your two other candidates would be much better for putting around... and have lower seat height too. get the bike running good and trade (or trade-in) for one of these perfectly fine trail bikes.

IMO, have the left exhaust valve adjusted to less than 0.006" (0.15mm) for the best auto-decompressor performance. I would have no problem with 0.004" myself. This is not a common opinion, btw.

find out if the ECU has the latest & greatest racing map (TXC map)- from the previous owner maybe.

I agree with Robert ("delicate") but the word I've been using has been "brittle". Although you need to stay on top of them, they are great bikes.

good luck.

 

[DJ Easterby]

Trenchcoat85 - Thanks for the feedback. After reading through the thread on the key replacement I hope they did all the little steps correct as well, so that I am not back there again.

The stock battery may not have been the issue as a new lithium battery won't turn it over either. I took the starter motor into a local shop that works on starters and alternators, they guy has been doing this since the 70s and knows his trade. He will rebuild it for me, but likely won't be able to wrap with heavier cabling as there isn't that much room inside. I had heard about overbuilding the starters to make them more heavy duty and this was what I was told was being done. One of the sets of wires was totally trashed fried, either from a fault from new or loose connection, either way it will get rebuilt properly.

Once I get the starter back I will see how it turns over. May still have the valve clearance verified and adjusted if required. It definitely seems that a smaller clearance helps with keeping the decomp mech open a little longer and easing the load on the starter. When I spoke with Bill's Husky in Salem, he also mentioned running the idle a little slower than normal to help with that as well. Not 100% certain on how that helps but he said it would.

Not going to worry about the FI mapping for now, as the bike is running really nice, aside from the current starter issue.

Lastly as far as the other bikes like the XT250 or CRF250L, I could have gone that route but I likened the motos to my mountain bike. I have a fully dialled mtn bike and appreciate the ability to tweak and adjust to preference. The bikes like the CRF250L lack a lot of that adjustment. Things like brake / clutch lever, shock and fork settings ... I have a friend that purchased a 2017 CRF250L and likes it as his first bike. He is 145lbs and finds the suspension soft, I am 190lbs and would likely need to get the suspension redone to suit me. The Husky is also a good 50lbs lighter and has much more power, easier to run lower RPM and climb up stuff.

Although I am new to off-road moto, I think the Husky is a good first bike. I don't know if my riding level will ever get to the point where the bike is holding me back, but if I can get the bike to work consistently well (re, delicate or brittle), I can have a stable platform to grow my skills.

 

[Trenchcoat85]

DJ- keep us posted on the rewind/rebuild job; maybe I'll look into this for my starter. A new one is $250-300 ...and higher.


lowering the idle: first I've heard of this. the specification is 1950rpms, and higher is better IMHO. The auto-decompressor has a fairly high rpm before the centrifugal force deactivates it. Too low of an idle and things get noisy.

 

[DJ Easterby]

Yes, adjustment of decomp device is critical.
Setting TPS before setting CO, 1,2,3 also a good idea.

Starters in some bikes broke. If all is right they start like a light switch.

Ok, looks like I am still looking for the fix for this bike. Starter rebuilt, but not working. I guess the next step is getting valves checked for proper clearances?

How does the TPS impact starting issues? Can you explain more on your comments of "Setting TPS before setting CO"?

thx
J

 

[DJ Easterby]

DJ- keep us posted on the rewind/rebuild job; maybe I'll look into this for my starter. A new one is $250-300 ...and higher.


lowering the idle: first I've heard of this. the specification is 1950rpms, and higher is better IMHO. The auto-decompressor has a fairly high rpm before the centrifugal force deactivates it. Too low of an idle and things get noisy.

As noted to glangston, I am back looking for answers on this bike.

Got the starter back, installed it and am no further ahead, other than having a rebuilt started that I now know works as the old starter was definitely burnt. It was still operating at some capacity, but not 100%. $200 to have it rebuilt and was done with 1 size larger wire as was noted by the guys from Bill's Husky, as part of making the starter have a little more power.

Back to the electric starter not working. Can anyone confirm if the shims used to set the valve clearances are anything special for these 2013 Husky's or if any shop working on newer Husky's (KTM), would be fully capable? You had mentioned that it is the left exhaust that is of particular concern, with regard to the decompression mechanism and should be should have the valve adjusted to less than 0.006" (0.15mm).

Thanks again for helping out a noob on getting the issues sorted.

Cheers
J

 

[glangston]

Ok, looks like I am still looking for the fix for this bike. Starter rebuilt, but not working. I guess the next step is getting valves checked for proper clearances?

How does the TPS impact starting issues? Can you explain more on your comments of "Setting TPS before setting CO"?

thx
J

I liken it to setting timing or TDC. It's the zero reference point for the spark advance and meshes with the fueling increases as you apply more throttle. It's a millivolt value..around 970 or so on my bike.

 

[Trenchcoat85]

hi DJ-

I am confused now. Does the starter turn the motor over? at a reasonable rate? does the bike start & run?

you definitely want a 2000rpm idle.

The battery voltage should be at least 12.6v; at idle the voltage should be 14v. please check this (Li-Ion is 13.2v maybe?). This test confirms your charging system is now good.

the valve shims are the standard 7.48mm diameter that many bikes use. I believe 0.15mm is the spec'd minimum on the exhaust but I have no problem going tighter. I think 0.20mm is too loose.

can you list the problems you are trying to solve.

thanks.

 

[DJ Easterby]

hi DJ-

I am confused now. Does the starter turn the motor over? at a reasonable rate? does the bike start & run?

you definitely want a 2000rpm idle.

The battery voltage should be at least 12.6v; at idle the voltage should be 14v. please check this (Li-Ion is 13.2v maybe?). This test confirms your charging system is now good.

the valve shims are the standard 7.48mm diameter that many bikes use. I believe 0.15mm is the spec'd minimum on the exhaust but I have no problem going tighter. I think 0.20mm is too loose.

can you list the problems you are trying to solve.

thanks.

Sure will try to summarize. The bike originally was running poorly shortly after getting it. That appears to now be resolved. O2 sensor is back in as is baffle at back of muffler, making the bike a little quieter as well (all good as the bike was very loud). Possibly unrelated was the issue that the flywheel key sheared off. So now the bike appears to be running well, idles well, but must be kicked over as the electric start does not work. For whatever reason, when kicking the bike over, it is very hard to start unless the choke is pulled out. It still kicks over regardless of the choke position, it just does not seem close to starting unless the choke it out. Once it starts, I have to close / shut the choke off pretty quickly or it will stall. Once started, it idles well and runs nicely.

A little over a week ago, I pulled the starter off and took into a shop to have it rebuilt. The started was partially cooked in that some of the wire wraps were quite blackened. Got the rebuilt starter back and installed it, connected the freshly charged battery and still was not able to start the bike with the electric starter. The starter will at times, slightly turn the engine, but mostly when the started button is pressed the bike just clicks as if the battery is dead. Sounds like the clicking sound is coming from the starter relay. Starter relay has not been changed out as yet. Both connections to battery are clean and tight, as is positive lead to starter relay, and connection onto starter. Last night I dropped the bike off at the shop and asked that they check the valve clearances and if required adjust, specifically the exhaust valve that controls the decompression mech between 0.005in and 0.006in, rather than the 0.008in specified in the repair manual.

That's is where it sits right now. Besides the valve clearance issue, I am thinking of a couple of possible issues causing the problem.

• starter relay - Have no idea if it could partially work. With it being electrical I would think it works or it does not.
• starter worm gear to flywheel rotor - Didn't get a look inside, but the starter worm gear looks to be in perfect shape with no marks of any sort.
• ???

Cheers and thanks for the input. Hope to have it back before the weekend and with the starter working.

 

[Johnrg]

The valve check I bet will sort the bike. It was very revealing for me as I'd thoroughly gone over every variable in late '12 and into '13 on my '13 310. Thanks to Tinken. Hope it works for you in any case.